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Routes in Mexican Hat

Bandito Route C1
Robbins Route 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A2 R
Type: Aid
FA: Royal Robbins
Page Views: 2,512 total, 13/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Oct 24, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

There are two routes on this "hat". One is a bolt ladder, but the original route is natural without bolts. Scramble up to the base of the hat and aid out the roof. It is a short 30-40 foot pitch. The nailing is quite scary though as you are hanging straight down on knifeblades nailed in thin flakes. Near the lip of the roof the crack is very flaring and continues to be difficult until you reach the lip and are able to free climb the last few feet onto the flat summit. Super fun, short and just something to do if you are travelling through that area.

Protection

Pins, cams and stoppers

Photos

George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
We wondered if this is the route directly opposite the Bandito Route. If so it does indeed look scary. There are also some bolts left (west) of the Bandito Route, not clear what these are for. Oct 16, 2002