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Routes in Mexican Hat
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Bandito Route C1 |
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Nevills Route T A5+ X |
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Robbins Route 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A2 R |
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| Type: | Aid, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 37.17362, -109.84891 |
| FA: | Banditos Climbing Club |
| Page Views: | 10,329 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Gram on Sep 27, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Its hard to think of this route as a climb - its more of an experience. Look for the line of 5 bolts on the caprock and climb it. I didn't have a stick clip, so my partner stood on my back and clipped the first bolt - this added immensely to the climb. The leader should leave a daisy or sling on the first bolt for the second. The route overhangs so much it is easier to reclimb it than to jug.
The summit is big and a good place to stretch out and relax. There are fixed rap anchors and interesting relics in the summit cairn.
The route is worth doing purely because it is so strange. I've never seen anything else like it.
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