Type: Aid, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Banditos Climbing Club
Page Views: 9,846 total · 36/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Sep 27, 2001 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route

70 Opinions
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Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Its hard to think of this route as a climb - its more of an experience. Look for the line of 5 bolts on the caprock and climb it. I didn't have a stick clip, so my partner stood on my back and clipped the first bolt - this added immensely to the climb. The leader should leave a daisy or sling on the first bolt for the second. The route overhangs so much it is easier to reclimb it than to jug.

The summit is big and a good place to stretch out and relax. There are fixed rap anchors and interesting relics in the summit cairn.

The route is worth doing purely because it is so strange. I've never seen anything else like it.

Protection Suggest change

A few biners and aid climbing hardware is all you need-the route is a bolt ladder. A stick clip is useful for the first bolt, but you get full redit if you clip it by standing on your belayer's back.