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Areas in Tusher Canyon

Academy, The 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Aeolian Tower 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1
Convoy Wall 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Echo Pinnacle 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Hashishabrum Tower 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1
House Of Putterman 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Monitor and Merrimac Buttes 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 8
Neighbor Of Putterman 5 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 7
Putterman's Outhouse 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Small towers next to Echo and Aeolian 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Wolf U Boat 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1

Description

Tusher canyon is a traditional climbing area, and offers a ton of untouched rock. There are a couple of summits in the canyon, and plenty of solid cracks. The climbing in Tusher is in the early stages (there are very few fixed pieces). This makes for well thought out and exciting descents. Of the routes we have put up in the area we have still yet to use anything fixed. Some classics are Waldens Room on the House of Putterman, Hypercrack on Merrimac Butte, and Echo Pinnacle. The rock is mostly friendly on the hands but you will find the sandpaper now and then. The camping is free but please leave no trace, this is a great area and I would hate to see it restricted.
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Getting There

Take the highway north out of Moab for about thirteen miles, at mile marker 14 or thereabouts Mill Creek road will be on your left. Cross the tracks and continue down the dirt road. At the first Y take a right and keep going to another Y. Follow the sign to the Merrimac jeep trail. The road will keep going west and dump you into the wash. Drive the wash until you have to stop after a half mile. A 4WD with good clearance can get into Tusher, but low clearance vehicles shouldn't even try. If walking, after two miles you will see an open canyon on the right (House Of Putterman area - it is a fat tower with a goose neck shape on top), and if you keep going another mile and a half and you will hit the Echo Pinnacle area. Merrimac and Monitor Buttes are another half mile past that. E-mail me and I can send a better description of the directions.

36 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tusher Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2
Monitor Butte, The Plunge
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Without A Net
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suzi Has No Choice
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot For Teacher
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2 PG13
Etesian Hookup
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
After the Rain
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Walden's Room
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Window Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Hypercrack on the Anchor Chain
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Easton's Corner
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Merrimac Butte, The Albatross
Trad 2 pitches
Monitor Butte, The Plunge Monitor and Merrimac Buttes 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Without A Net Monitor and Merrimac Buttes 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X Trad
Suzi Has No Choice Neighbor Of Putterman 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Hot For Teacher Academy 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Etesian Hookup Aeolian Tower 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2 PG13 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
After the Rain Neighbor Of Putterman 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Walden's Room House Of Putterman 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Free Window Route Echo Pinnacle 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Hypercrack on the Anchor Chain Monitor and Merrimac Buttes 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X Trad 2 pitches
Easton's Corner House Of Putterman 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Merrimac Butte, The Albatross Monitor and Merrimac Buttes 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Tusher Canyon »

Weather Averages

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Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Wally
Denver
Wally   Denver
Driving beta is mostly good here. Mile marker signs are now numbered differently, turnoff is between mile marker 141 and 142. We had a 4-runner - was glad we had the four wheel drive. Not sure if I would want to try to get in here with a subaru (or a Paseo . . .).

Great climbing weekend destination. Apr 10, 2012
chalkfingers
park city, utah
chalkfingers   park city, utah
I got all the way driving a small totoya paseo... you don't need a big car... just a good driver and patience. Apr 19, 2009
Olaf Mitchell
Paia, Maui, Hi,
Olaf Mitchell   Paia, Maui, Hi,
There is a natural half pipe at the end of the right hand wall.It
is one amazing feature! Not to be missed! Nov 23, 2008
There's some good mtn. biking in this canyon too (if it's the one I'm thinking of). Lot's of freeform slick rock when you get up out of the wash. Why not bike in w/ your gear? Jun 7, 2002

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