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Routes in Neighbor Of Putterman

After the Rain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Toe Slab TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fearless T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Glob Gleab C1
Putterman's Big Toe T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Putterman's Poopshoot T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Suzi Has No Choice T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: Mark Tjaden, Jasper Hillhouse
Page Views: 1,452 total, 8/month
Shared By: Brian Shelton on Mar 23, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Suzi Has No Choice, is 100 yards to the right of Puttermans Big Toe. It is a right leaning finger to fist crack to the top of a flake. It is only 35 or so feet but the moves are all fun. The bottom is great for a finger workout.

Protection

This is a short route so only three or four placements are needed, Gear: #5 nut at the bottom (Crux),BD#3 in the middle to BD#4 at the top to gain the top of the giant flake (35 feet). Anchors can be made from two 3 to 4 inch cams behind the flake. Lower the second then drop the rope behide the flake and rap of it.

Photos

Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
I climbed this again on 10/24/13; there was nothing on the anchor bolts. I threaded one piece of black webbing and attached a quick link for rappel. This was meant as a temporary descent anchor - PLEASE DO NOT TRUST THIS ANCHOR WITHOUT ADDING TO IT. Oct 26, 2013
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
This is a fantastic route. Great fingers on the lower section with little for the feet, a fun transition into the wide crack, easy(ish) offwidth to the top. Apr 27, 2011
Ryan Huetter
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Ryan Huetter   Mammoth Lakes, CA
teabagged Apr 17, 2006
Sandbagged Jan 20, 2006
Mark Tjaden
  5.10a PG13
Mark Tjaden  
  5.10a PG13
It may be short, but it is a great route. The no choice comes from having no choice but to support your boys. Suzi is my wife. This route is a perfect example of the best of both worlds. Think crack, little overhang, plus a wide fist jam at the top.

Mark Nov 15, 2002
There is now a two bolt anchor for this route. Sep 3, 2002