Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dan Russell and Brian Shelton
Page Views: 4,187 total · 16/month
Shared By: Dan Russell on Aug 29, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Approach as you would for all other routes, towards the gap between the House of Putterman and the Neighbor of Putterman. Continue along the base of Neighbor of Putterman, a couple hundred feet past Fearless. The route is hidden until you are right under it, located around a large right-facing corner. A beautifully clean flake fills the center of the route, beginning 30 feet up on a huge ledge. There is a large boulder on the ledge directly at the base of the flake. It will be very obvious once you see it.

Pitch 1: Climb a loose, right-facing dihedral (5.8) to gain Gem Ledge. The dihedral takes small nuts or micro cams, and is located to the left side of the large boulder. Once on the ledge, tunnel behind the boulder to reach the base of the flake.

Pitch 2: Climb the flake 100 feet to a 2-bolt anchor at a sloping, blocky ledge. It starts at 2-3 inches, beautiful 5.8 hands. Two-thirds of the way up the pitch, the flake widens to a 5.9 offwidth/layback, taking gear in the 4-5 inch range. A phenomenal pitch.

Pitch 3: From the ledge, ascend a short but steep handcrack (5.10, 10 feet). Continue another 40 feet up the right-facing corner in a 4-5 inch offwidth that surmounts a couple of fun bulges (5.9). Bring big gear. The topout is a mantel! Belay from a 3-bolt rap station just to the right of the topout.

Once on top, a short scramble will place you on the summit proper of the Neighbor of Putterman.

Descent: Rappel 180 feet to the ground with two 60m ropes. With 50m ropes, do a tricky rappel to the anchor on top of Pitch 2. Make sure you rappel down the route, not over the overhang. Otherwise, you won't be able to swing to the anchor. You could hike out, but it would be long and very, very circuitous.

This route is phenomenal, and we were amazed to find it! Other than the first 30 feet of desert choss, the rest of the route is clean and beautiful!

Protection Suggest change

a few small nuts are useful for first pitchCAMS: - 2-3 each 2"-3" - 3-4 each 3"-5"Go heavy on the cams bigger than 3 inches, most of the route is wide!

Photos

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