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Routes in Neighbor Of Putterman

After the Rain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Toe Slab TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fearless T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Glob Gleab C1
Putterman's Big Toe T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Putterman's Poopshoot T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Suzi Has No Choice T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 180 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dan Russell and Brian Shelton
Page Views: 2,526 total · 13/month
Shared By: Dan Russell on Aug 29, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Approach as you would for all other routes, towards the gap between the House of Putterman and the Neighbor of Putterman. Continue along the base of Neighbor of Putterman, a couple hundred feet past Fearless. The route is hidden until you are right under it, located around a large right-facing corner. A beautifully clean flake fills the center of the route, beginning 30 feet up on a huge ledge. There is a large boulder on the ledge directly at the base of the flake. It will be very obvious once you see it.

Pitch 1: Climb a loose, right-facing dihedral (5.8) to gain Gem Ledge. The dihedral takes small nuts or micro cams, and is located to the left side of the large boulder. Once on the ledge, tunnel behind the boulder to reach the base of the flake.

Pitch 2: Climb the flake 100 feet to a 2-bolt anchor at a sloping, blocky ledge. It starts at 2-3 inches, beautiful 5.8 hands. Two-thirds of the way up the pitch, the flake widens to a 5.9 offwidth/layback, taking gear in the 4-5 inch range. A phenomenal pitch.

Pitch 3: From the ledge, ascend a short but steep handcrack (5.10, 10 feet). Continue another 40 feet up the right-facing corner in a 4-5 inch offwidth that surmounts a couple of fun bulges (5.9). Bring big gear. The topout is a mantel! Belay from a 3-bolt rap station just to the right of the topout.

Once on top, a short scramble will place you on the summit proper of the Neighbor of Putterman.

Descent: Rappel 180 feet to the ground with two 60m ropes. With 50m ropes, do a tricky rappel to the anchor on top of Pitch 2. Make sure you rappel down the route, not over the overhang. Otherwise, you won't be able to swing to the anchor. You could hike out, but it would be long and very, very circuitous.

This route is phenomenal, and we were amazed to find it! Other than the first 30 feet of desert choss, the rest of the route is clean and beautiful!

Protection

a few small nuts are useful for first pitchCAMS: - 2-3 each 2"-3" - 3-4 each 3"-5"Go heavy on the cams bigger than 3 inches, most of the route is wide!

Photos

This is the best route at the Putterman area, very highly recomended! Sep 11, 2002
Dan Russell  
 
I uploaded the topo I drew up just after the FA. Sorry if it's messy, but it should be accurate. Feb 11, 2003
Sergio P
Idaho Springs, CO
  5.10
Sergio P   Idaho Springs, CO
  5.10
Great route! We found a stuck #4 camalot in the upper section of the OW. We tried to get it out, but to no avail. If it is still there then that is one less #4 you have to carry up there. I would also recommend 3-4 #3.5 camalots or #4 friends.

We lengthened the rap so the links are over the lip of the summit. Without doing this pulling the ropes was a huge chore from the amount of friction. Mar 30, 2008
The second pitch is not a hand crack unless you have #3 to #3.5 size mitts. I would recommend 4 3.5 BD cams or #4 Friends the new C4 #4 is too big for the crack. I found the 2nd pitch the crux of the route-much harder than pitch 3. The #4 cam is no longer there. Thanks to Sergio and Dana for extending the rap anchors. A superb route. Sep 29, 2008
Wally
Denver
  5.10
Wally   Denver
  5.10
This one has sandbag written all over it. First pitch is pretty tricky, more like 5.9.

Second pitch is a great pitch! Very memorable. Dan - you must have big mitts - this pitch steps up harder than 5.8 much earlier than suggested.

I also struggle with the rack beta on this one. Both Sergio and Alison recommend 3 to 4 #3.5 camalots. Pretty unique size - not too many folks out there have that many number 3.5s. The most prevalant cam size is #3 camalots. My gear beta for this one:

Single set of cams, small to #1 camalot. Three #2s, five #3s, one or two #3.5s, one or two #4s, one #5, one #6 (optional). No stoppers. The first ascent topo suggests no small cams are needed. I don't agree with this, the first pitch has good small cam placements and the second pitch has a few horizontals that take small cams.

We didn't do the last pitch, my partner got smoked trying to follow pitch two, and the beer was calling. Apr 10, 2012

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