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Suzi Has No Choice

5.10a, Trad,  Avg: 2.3 from 7 votes
FA: Mark Tjaden, Jasper Hillhouse
Utah > Southeast Utah > Tusher Canyon > Neighbor Of Putterman
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Suzi Has No Choice, is 100 yards to the right of Puttermans Big Toe. It is a right leaning finger to fist crack to the top of a flake. It is only 35 or so feet but the moves are all fun. The bottom is great for a finger workout.

Protection

This is a short route so only three or four placements are needed, Gear: #5 nut at the bottom (Crux),BD#3 in the middle to BD#4 at the top to gain the top of the giant flake (35 feet). Anchors can be made from two 3 to 4 inch cams behind the flake. Lower the second then drop the rope behide the flake and rap of it.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

North Face "Neighbor Of Putterman"
[Hide Photo] North Face "Neighbor Of Putterman"
On the finger section of Suzi.
[Hide Photo] On the finger section of Suzi.
Protecting the crux.
[Hide Photo] Protecting the crux.
Mark Tjaden on the 1st ascent of Suzi Has No Choice.
[Hide Photo] Mark Tjaden on the 1st ascent of Suzi Has No Choice.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian Shelton
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] There is now a two bolt anchor for this route. Sep 3, 2002
Mark Tjaden
  5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] It may be short, but it is a great route. The no choice comes from having no choice but to support your boys. Suzi is my wife. This route is a perfect example of the best of both worlds. Think crack, little overhang, plus a wide fist jam at the top.

Mark Nov 15, 2002
Brian Shelton
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Sandbagged Jan 20, 2006
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] This is a fantastic route. Great fingers on the lower section with little for the feet, a fun transition into the wide crack, easy(ish) offwidth to the top. Apr 27, 2011
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I climbed this again on 10/24/13; there was nothing on the anchor bolts. I threaded one piece of black webbing and attached a quick link for rappel. This was meant as a temporary descent anchor - PLEASE DO NOT TRUST THIS ANCHOR WITHOUT ADDING TO IT. Oct 26, 2013
Mark P Thomas
Draperderr, by Bangerter, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] If you're a wuss on finger cracks like me, then this is the recommended rack to sew up the route:
2x#0.2-0.3, 1x#0.75, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

Although sewing up the fingers seemed like a good idea considering the softness of the rock and proximity of the ground...

Finger locks are bomber, but the steepness, lean, and lack of feet makes this a tough lead! Oct 7, 2019