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5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British C0
Avg: 3.6 from 68
votes
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 270 ft (82 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 38.68334, -109.7511 |
| FA: | ??? |
| Page Views: | 10,344 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Apr 26, 2003 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
This route starts up the West face directly under the window (the obvious hole in the rock). Climb up some good cracks (5.8) with a couple tricky moves and lots of jamming to the window. From here, jam out the overhang on good hands that quickly turn to tight bastard hands in the dihedral (5.10+). Follow this until you get to the bolted section that protects the window section. You now must climb the weirdest thing in the world (5.10+ squeeze) - you'll be horribly confused, but it's some of the best climbing in the desert. From here, you can go left up a 5.11 offwidth or follow the bolt ladder to the right at A0 or 5.11 offwidth. Arrive at a three-bolt, chained anchor. Rap with one 80 meter rope. It's a 36 meter rap back to the top of P1. A 70 meter won't fully touch the ledge.
Photos
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