Type: Trad, 270 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: ???
Page Views: 6,879 total · 36/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Apr 26, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This route starts up the West face directly under the window (the obvious hole in the rock). Climb up some good cracks (5.8) with a couple tricky moves and lots of jamming to the window. From here, jam out the overhang on good hands that quickly turn to tight bastard hands in the dihedral (5.10+). Follow this until you get to the bolt ladder protecting the chimney. You now must climb the weirdest thing in the world (5.10+ squeeze) - you will be horribly confused, but it's some of the best climbing in the desert. A couple unroped mantels on the summit (avoid the chipped edges on the first one for extra style points) lead to the top, and a gazillion new bolts (?). One of the best towers in the desert. Two double-rope raps get you down.


Bring a standard rack with a few extra #1 Camalots.
I have never climbed anything as funky as the O/W section on the third pitch of this route. Half your body is on one side of the tower and half is on the other, it is an amazing position. Absolutely one of the best desert towers around. Aug 28, 2003
Anonymous Coward
Anonymous Coward  
One of the best towers around? Whoa! Easy there! Whoa! May 18, 2004
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
I noticed some strangeness on this climb when I did it.....which was with Lori Graff in the early 1980's. I believe to the left of the crack you climb on pitch one, there is a bolt ladder of studs with no hangers;...maybe the original way of the first ascent? We got our ropes stuck too....that was irritating. These towers in this beautiful canyon/valley are fantastic. Cool summit of a beautiful tower in a wonderful area......all good stuff. Apr 30, 2007
Greg D
Greg D   Here
Great route. I highly recommend this route for the adventurous folk. Somewhat remote, very scenic, not well traveled, varied climbing with one of the most unique pitches I have ever climbed... "well" protected with mostly manky old bolts and pins. Rap 1 = 130 feet, rap 2 = 90 feet. Oct 8, 2008
Are some of you guys doing this in three pitches? It seems like you are belaying right below the "chimney" and the descriptions seems to counter this. Dec 24, 2008
criscokid, we did the route in 3 pitches. Dec 29, 2008
Greg D
Greg D   Here

It may be possible to combine the 2nd and 3rd pitches but the 3rd pitch goes up, traverses right, then straight up again. Maybe 150 feet total. Rope drag may be an issue. We did it in 3. Jan 29, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
We did this route primarily as an aid climb (I have a recently broken foot and shouldn't really stick it in cracks yet), and here's how the climb rolled...

P1 - 30m. Dirty, physical 5.8++ climbing. Gear is surprisingly good, but lots of flaking foot holds and a few death blocks keep it interesting. Anchor was a big slung block, plus any hand size cams you want.

P2 - 25m. Fabulous corner... I wish I could have free climbed it, but not on this trip. It was grunty C1 for me. There did appear to be nice rests on the upper half. Hanging belay on one OK bolt and good drilled angle.

P3 - 20m. Pretty wild position. Even at C0, some free climbing is required to get to the first bolt and do a stretch where a bolt is missing. The bolts do not inspire confidence - bring some screamers. You can lob a big cam through the crack onto the other side of the formation to protect getting to the first bolt. Pretty cool!

On top, choose any combination of the various bolts available... there are all flavors.

Descent: A rap anchor of 3 good drilled angles is available. One double rope rap to the big ledge, and then another rap (30m) to the ground. If needed you can easily get to the lower rap anchor from the top of P1 by walking along the big ledge.

Gear: Some medium to big nuts, One set TCUs, 2x#0.5 and 2x#0.75 camalots, a good helping of #1 and #2 camalots (most people will want at least three I suspect - four was nice for aiding), two or three #3 camalots, one #3.5 camalot. Apr 6, 2009
longmont, co
TK421   longmont, co
I just did this route- super fun adventure for sure. We did it in 2 pitches no problem. The hanging belay after the hand crack sucks so we just did it in 2. No problem at all. Bring a lot of runners but cool chimney thingee and good fun all around. Nov 9, 2009
moab, ut
LahDaBudz   moab, ut
did this route in'09 some of the bolts have been chopped on the bolt ladder making this climb even more full value if it wasn't already. also did it in three pitches rather than two. took a little more time but i was thankful when i got to the mantels and didnt have rope drag. Jan 15, 2010
Paul Irby
moab, ut
Paul Irby   moab, ut
freakeeeeeee!!!!! May 8, 2010
jason malczyk
General Delivery
jason malczyk   General Delivery
Climbed this route on Oct 9, 2010. While seconding we had a piton pull on the third pitch. It was about the 6 or 7th clip. This will make it hard for aiding. This route is in need of some rebolting. All the bolt hangers are spinning and and the rock around them is eroding. Oct 9, 2010
matt j hartman
Leavenworth WA
matt j hartman   Leavenworth WA
There are 2 drilled angles thru the window that are good. It seems like a free variation has been played with on the other side of the window (left, or whatever). It might be less awkward to climb on that side of the tower, better stems. You can clip the lower of the angles from just below the lower crux. The higher might be hard to reach from the thrutch straight up. Bolts up high looked good. Always something when you need it. This is a good, hard tower for the grade. Nov 23, 2011
Wally   Denver
Beta here is solid. We did pitch 2 and pitch 3 as one - not much of a ledge if you break this up as two pitches, although the weight of two ropes at the top of this long pitch was certainly evident. An incredible pitch - quite strenuous, opening moves, finishing moves, pretty much the whole pitch is in your face. A few rests after you punch through the hands to tight hands start. If you love this pitch - somewhat reminiscent of Long Dong Wall (Colorado National Monument) and Honeymoon Chimney.

Agree with the comment about pitch one being 5.8++. I dumped most of the suggested rack into this pitch - a lot of the rock does not inspire confidence. An enjoyable pitch certainly, just a bit funky. Not sure I would recommend this pitch for the 5.8 leader.

The route is west facing - not much if any protection from the sun due to the chimney feature - if the day is toasty - would be good to get on this one early. Apr 10, 2012
J. Hickok
Salida, CO
J. Hickok   Salida, CO
Even though the rock is not the best, this gets 4 stars because of the line it takes and the extraordinary climbing. Aug 14, 2012
paul bucher
moab, utah
  5.11- PG13
paul bucher   moab, utah
  5.11- PG13
first pitch is better than it looks. taylor lead this one so i'll let him beta that. second pitch, lots of gold, red, green, purple camalots. two old bolts on this pitch. belay at two old pins. back up in sandy flared crack that runs from about 3and 1/2 camalot down to about a purple camalot. third pitch, old, OLD!! bolts and pins. i placed one #3and1/2 camalot and one #3 camalot on that pitch. stick clip or risk falling on bad old pro. i also used three rivet hangers on that pitch. placed the small grey camalot on pitch one and two. placed no stoppers except to back up belay at top of pitch two. placed two hexes, one on pitch one and one to back up belay at top of pitch two. so i say leave the stoppers and hexes on the deck and use a couple cams to back up the belay. one double 70 rap got us to the ground. 5.9 A? for us. good, sic climb. one of the better ones i have ever done. i would like to see this route get the holes from pins that have pulled filled with bomber new bolts but leave the old pins that remain for thrill factor and historical preservation. Sep 2, 2012
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
Wow! This route is the whole desert tower experience rolled up in 3 pitches. Splitter, chossy, sublime, and funky all at once. Pitch 1 is some prime desert choss, with flaky rock but good pro and fun jams. Pitch 2 is an awesome beautiful splitter with a couple good rest stances. Pitch 3 is incredibly exposed, with wide funky climbing, sketchy pro, and incredible geometry. I would highly recommend this to strong visiting climbers who only have time for one tower and want the full spectrum of experience with great scenery and no crowds.

I freed almost all of the bolt ladder, but I stick-clipped past the two missing bolts before freeing those sections, not being willing to risk whipping on the very old pro. Personally I would like to see this bolt ladder upgraded with safe bolts and the missing bolts replaced. This would make it a much more sane proposition to free on lead, and it's an incredible pitch at 5.10+. I don't think old bolts, random ring pitons, and empty holes add much to the experience. If anyone wants to do this job, let me know and I'd be happy to help provide support, materials, and/or beer.

Until/unless a re-bolting happens, bring a stickclip for aiding the 3rd pitch, or bring a bold leader willing to run it out above old bolts on weird sandy climbing.

Perfect rack for me would be a handful of medium nuts, doubles from .5 to #3 C4, triple #2s, and a single #4 C4. Oct 17, 2012
Josh Ewing
Bluff, UT
Josh Ewing   Bluff, UT
I'm in on the re-bolting mission. When I climbed this a few years back, I remember thinking it would be one of the best in the desert, if it weren't for the mank on that last pitch. Although I freed it on TR, my partner used some french free skills to lessen the risk factor on the old gear. Anyone interested...pm. I've got drill and hangers...need some bolts though. Nov 26, 2012
Wade Plafcan
Moab, UT
Wade Plafcan   Moab, UT
super fun adventure route! ended up aiding the top, would be really fun to free but those old bolts are terrifying to fall on, new bolts would make it amazing!. definitely bring a stick clip or i ended up just doing some free moves to skip over the missing piton to the next one.

The top is very weird, someone chopped all the bolts and there were a LOT, but there are a few randoms up there still. Looked like some that were chopped were in a better spot for the last anchor than the current 3 piton anchor, but who knows.

exciting and fun position! Oct 17, 2014
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.10+ R
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.10+ R
Someone needs to add a couple bolts on that pitch. Whoever goes up next. It's "R" until that happens imo. Such a great pitch to not have updated hardware. A real classic. It only needs 3 or 4. Maybe every 4th be a nice bolt? Would be cool for it to all have some spice, but be semi safe. Because you would rip out 50 percent of those bolts or more if you fell. That last pitch may be the most unique free pitch in the desert? So cool! Sep 20, 2015
khoa   Tacomarado
80m works great for the rap Dec 16, 2015
Just climbed this on 2/17/17 with Spencer Cone. We loved it. Some of the fixed gear is a little dubious but nothing drastic - free climbing seemed completely safe to me, and I wouldn't think twice about aiding on the old bolts. We did not use a stick clip, and in hindsight I don't understand why it would be necessary. The super funky, and hardest climbing is plenty well protected, and the only time you are above your last piece, the climbing is easy and the piece is a pretty solid drilled angle.

A friend suggested to me to bring a #5 Camalot and to stay left under the block that forms the top of the upper window, if going for a free ascent. We took the advice and found it to be a good decision. You will stray from the bolt line, but the climbing is much more approachable (5.10 OW). Feb 20, 2017
Mark Melvin   Moab
Did this route early November 2017. This is no desert classic. It is a wild way to get to a summit, a beautiful summit at that, but the first pitch is choss, although pretty solid, 5.8++ with god pro, the second pitch is very nice but short, and the third is weird. Other writeups don't quite tell the story of the bolts, which may have changed. As of this date, there are plenty of bolts to climb it free. P1: Obvious where to go, choss 5.8+, the most awesome ledge in the world (the window), and the rappel anchor is 40' south (right) on that ledge. P2: Also obvious, hands/fists off a block and into a nice corner, hands to thin hands for the 30' crux (5.10+/5.11a), easier to the bolt/pin anchor. P3: Think of it this way: it's obvious that the bolts were for an aid ladder because there are too many of them and they're in the wrong place. But they are clipable nonetheless, with a little work required. Off belay #2, climb easy to a drilled angle, then step to the other side of the rock to work a fist move or so, where you have enough feet to push up, and clip bolts for pro. About 4 bolts up is a no-feet slot, where chicken-winging and grunting (5.10+/5.11a OW) get you to easier ground. At this point the bolt ladder traverses under the final block and goes up the side. The no-feet crawl idea to get to the right side of the block didn't look free to me, more like the obvious extension of a bolt ladder, so I went to the other side of the block, climbing a 5.10+OW boulder move chimney. If you do this, here you want a #5 camelot or it's truly an "R" climb, as you'll hit the ledge and bounce another 20 feet into the chimney before your rope will catch (as Dave, below, indicated). Easy to the top. Fairly conservative gear: 1-.4, 2-.5, 3-.75, 3-1's, 3-2's, 2-3's, 1-5, 8-QDs, no nuts or small gear. I don't know if the right side of the block at the top with the bolt line is free and if so at what level, since I did the left, which needs the #5. Nov 5, 2017

  5.11a PG13
  5.11a PG13
man, i totally disagree. this thing is definitely a desert classic! three ultra diverse pitches to a superb summit.

on a side note, i agree with noah about the bolt situation. a lot of them are in rough shape. Nov 30, 2017
Nick Black
Arcata, CA
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
One of the most memorable routes I've ever done! Damn stiff for the grade, first pitch has some serious moves which are definitely not 5.8, second pitch is steep 1-.5 C4's(heavy on tight 1's, baggy .75's), and the third pitch is just plain crazy, not even sure what I'd call it. Walked in, hitched a ride out on the back of a jeep! Definitely going to do this one again... Jan 19, 2018
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Wild route! Pitch 1 is super fun and takes good gear. A little flakey but not too bad. Pitch 2 is amazing hands for a good ways, 3 each of #1 and #2 camalots. There are two old bolts right next to bomber cam placements on this section which could help mitigate gear issues. The hanging belay looked horrible so I pressed onward and linked it to the top. That next section was the most bizzare desert climbing I’ve done. All the fixed gear seemed good, albeit somewhat spaced at times. I took the advice of previous posters and went left away from the bolt line up the OW and found it to be an extremely difficult and non trivial 15-20 feet. Not just an “OW move or two”. Be prepared for some strenuous thrutching. #5 cam was essential. Top has some very bad rope grooves developing in the soft rock.

Double rope rap from the summit to the big ledge, then a single rope to the ground.

Mark Melvin's gear list seemed good. I personally didn't use anything smaller than a .5, and only needed one .75, not 3. I'd bring more than 8 QD's if you're going to link pitches 2-3. Oct 16, 2018
Ryan Rex
Spanish Fork
Ryan Rex   Spanish Fork
I was skeptical that this could be “one of the best towers in the desert”, but it did not disappoint! P1 climbs better than it looks. P2 starts on overhanging hands, to perfect hands, then pinches down from there. super awesome. And the fixed gear on p3 isn’t nearly as manky as some comments make it sound. Standard desert relics. If you aid on them, then the last pitch is mellow. But if you're free climbing, there's a couple bolts that really shouldnt take a fall... There are 2 sections where there’s a couple bolts missing in a row, so either plan on some delicate sandy 5.10 free climbing, or bring a long stick clip.

The rack recommendation above is pretty good.
Double 70s put you on the ground in one rap 2 days ago