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Routes in Monitor and Merrimac Buttes

Hollis Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A1 PG13
Hypercrack on the Anchor Chain T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Hypothetical Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Keel Hauling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Merrimac Butte, The Albatross T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monitor Butte, The Plunge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2
Stand and Deliver T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Without A Net T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: The Ruckman Brothers
Page Views: 971 total, 10/month
Shared By: charley graham on Nov 5, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A sustained thin-hand splitter on pretty damn good Entrada comprises the first pitch. Belay on a ledge halfway up the butte. The second pitch follows a narrowing crack until you can worm into the chimney and wriggle to the top (5.10+).

Location

200 ft. left of the southeast prow of Merrimac butte on a west facing wall.

Protection

Doubles of fingers to fists with extra thin hands.

Photos

Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
A great Entrada route for sure, with a variety of burly sizes. The 2nd pitch involves some pretty wild climbing up the chimney, with a face splitter providing pretty good pro. There are some sizable loose blocks to avoid on this pitch, and a very tight squeeze finale that is best tackled deep in the depths of the chimney.
The first pitch belay has a newer bolt and a splitter crack which requires an extra #1 Camalot or two. The rap anchors (which are on a separate system about 50' left of the Albatross route) are uninspiring and could greatly benefit from an update! Two single rope raps with a 70m gets you down, but the initial rap is very close, so watch the ends carefully. Nov 10, 2015
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11
Extra-extra #1's and .75's. Anything bigger than a #2 Camalot is just extra weight. Jun 17, 2014
jakobi
moab, utah
 
jakobi   moab, utah
 
Pretty darn good route, you might forget that you're climbing Entrada. Mar 20, 2013