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Routes in House Of Putterman
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Digital Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Digital Stimulation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Easton's Corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Neurological Stimulation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Putterman's Nub S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Walden's Room T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 240 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Cameron Burns, Brian Takei 22 Oct. 1994 FFA- Jon Butler , Cameron Burns Oct. 1995 |
| Page Views: | 2,196 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Folsom on Oct 2, 2007 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
The route starts near the left side of the East face of the formation.
P1- Climb a handcrack to a ledge.
P2- Climb a corner and an offwidth to ledges.
P3- Move the belay up and right to below a drilled angle. Climb up the finger crack and continue past drilled angles to the summit. 5.10+
P1- Climb a handcrack to a ledge.
P2- Climb a corner and an offwidth to ledges.
P3- Move the belay up and right to below a drilled angle. Climb up the finger crack and continue past drilled angles to the summit. 5.10+
Idaho Springs, CO
With 2 60 meter ropes do one rap from the summit (you can do this part with one rope) to the top of pitch 2. Then one 180 rap to the ground.
With one 60meter rope do one rap from the summit to the top of pitch 2. Another rap to the top of Easton's Corner(this is the5.11 left facing corner to the right of the original start). These rap anchors are visible from the ground. Then one 100 rap to the bottom. Mar 30, 2008
Boulder
Bend, OR
P1 is short, and is a fun 5.9 handcrack with good gear.
P2 is definitely a chimney, with an offwidth move or two to get established. A fat bolt protects the opening move into the chimney - which is the crux of the pitch. From there, plenty of feet on the left wall keep things relatively straightforward for a squeeze chimney.... but still expect a little struggle. I placed a #6 camalot above the bolt (I used it lower on the pitch as well, and then back cleaned it). Beyond that, there was a surprising amount of good gear on the left wall - I think I placed two small offset nuts (both bomber) and a #2 camalot. No need to bring anything bigger than a #6.
P3 is a scramble up and right, but most will want to keep the rope on for one sandy move. I didn't see a drilled angle below the finger crack, but you're on a big ledge and it is easy to build an anchor in the crack.
P4 10+ thin crack to a two bolt ladder. The business is very short (less than 10 feet), and easy to french free if needed. I didn't even try to free the upper pin ladder, the rock was crap. There are only two pins on the ladder, and it is very easy to stand on the lower pin to get the upper pin. No need for any aiding equipment.
Descent: The top anchor of two drilled pins is getting a little funky, but was still solid. We did the descent in 4 single rope raps. Pulling a double rope rap from the top of the second pitch looked like it would suck, hence our motivation to do shorter raps. From the top of P2 you'll rap to another anchor off to the side - you'll see it on the ledge below the chimney when climbing up.
My gear: Nuts (including small), one set TCUs or small cams, 1x0.5 camalot, 1x0.75 camalot, 1x#1 camalot, 2x#2 camalot, 2x#3 camalot, 1x#4 camalot (definitely optional), 1x#6 camalot. Don't bother bringing two big pieces, it is easy to back clean if you need to. Apr 7, 2009
Lander, WY
I agree with all the ANdy has to say above. I would add that when Josh began removing the old anchor he said "I wonder how long...."> His first hit with the hammer removed the first pin. Very little rust was holding it in. The second pin took about 6 times as much effort. May 20, 2009
Moab, UT
Denver
Sam and Josh - thanks for the updated hardware!
Cool route! Great summit. Put this one on your list!
Pitch four - both crux sections are hard, memorable. One bit of disagreement is the suggestion to aid the bolt ladder - very freeable and reasonable at the grade - if you slip - the bolt is right there. Maybe this section has cleaned up over time. Apr 10, 2012
moab, utah
Salt Lake City, UT