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Elevation: 4,291 ft 1,308 m
GPS: 38.5232, -109.6024
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 446,738 total · 1,628/month
Shared By: Tradkelly on Nov 29, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Kane Springs Canyon has lots of varied climbing. Many Cutler hoodoos line the road and provide strange short climbs like mini Fisher Towers. The Ice Cream Parlor is entirely a trad area (as far as I know) on good rock on Navajo and Wingate formations, with lots of possibilities for future hard free and aid route development. Routes on various crags range from 5.8 slabs/cracks to 5.12- and C2 grade IV climbs. Primitive camping areas are located along the roadside near some of the crags, and there is a potable natural spring 2.2 miles into the dirt road. BASE jumpers frequent the Tombstones and are fun to watch, or you can do one of the long trad or free routes on them.

Getting There Suggest change

From Main Street Moab (US 191), head west on Kane Creek Blvd from the McDonald's on the south end of town, or intersect Kane Creek Blvd from 400 North. Head north as you leave town, under the east-facing cliffs above town, and past the scenic chairlift. The road continues north and then turns south as it passes the Portal and parallels the river for three miles (paved), opposite Wall Street. Mark distances for rocks from the cattleguard about 3 miles along the south portion of the road, where pavement ends. A high-clearance 2WD will make the road with no problems. Expect switchbacks, graded speedbumps (difficult for low-slung vehicles), and big rocks in the roadway.

168 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Kane Springs Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+ R
 6
Lick My Split
Boulder
V4 6B
 5
Spite Club
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 247
Crack 1
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 68
Hallow Souls
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 171
Brush Your Teeth
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 163
Hot Karl Sunday
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2
 21
Playing Hooky
Aid 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
Farm
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 123
Ice Cream Parlor Crack
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
The Edibles
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 38
Xylokane
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 4
Best In Show
Trad 3 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 44
Corner Route
Trad 5 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 7
T-Rex
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 4
Ringlock Ranch
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lick My Split Invert Offwidth Bould…
 6
V2 5+ R Boulder
Spite Club Invert Offwidth Bould…
 5
V4 6B Boulder
Crack 1 Ice Cream Parlor
 247
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Hallow Souls Space Tower Area
 68
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Brush Your Teeth Ice Cream Parlor
 171
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Hot Karl Sunday Ice Cream Parlor
 163
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Playing Hooky Cirque of the Climbables
 21
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2 Aid 4 pitches
Farm Isolated Climbs
 18
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Ice Cream Parlor Crack Ice Cream Parlor
 123
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
The Edibles Bakery
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Xylokane Abraxas Wall
 38
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Best In Show Dog Wall
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
Corner Route Cirque of the Climbables
 44
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 5 pitches
T-Rex Ice Cream Parlor
 7
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Ringlock Ranch Trough Springs Wall
 4
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Kane Springs Canyon »

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