Elevation: 4,291 ft
GPS: 38.523, -109.602 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 235,367 total · 1,080/month
Shared By: Tradkelly on Nov 29, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Kane Springs Canyon has lots of varied climbing. Many Cutler hoodoos line the road and provide strange short climbs like mini Fisher Towers. The Ice Cream Parlor is entirely a trad area (as far as I know) on good rock on Navajo and Wingate formations, with lots of possibilities for future hard free and aid route development. Routes on various crags range from 5.8 slabs/cracks to 5.12- and C2 grade IV climbs. Primitive camping areas are located along the roadside near some of the crags, and there is a potable natural spring 2.2 miles into the dirt road. BASE jumpers frequent the Tombstones and are fun to watch, or you can do one of the long trad or free routes on them.

Getting There

From Main Street Moab (US 191), head west on Kane Creek Blvd from the McDonald's on the south end of town, or intersect Kane Creek Blvd from 400 North. Head north as you leave town, under the east-facing cliffs above town, and past the scenic chairlift. The road continues north and then turns south as it passes the Portal and parallels the river for three miles (paved), opposite Wall Street. Mark distances for rocks from the cattleguard about 3 miles along the south portion of the road, where pavement ends. A high-clearance 2WD will make the road with no problems. Expect switchbacks, graded speedbumps (difficult for low-slung vehicles), and big rocks in the roadway.

130 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Kane Springs Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 195
5.6 Corner
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 118
Black Slab
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 92
Slab Route
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 179
Crack 1
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 151
Crack 3
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 110
Critical Mass
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
 55
The Happy Turk
Aid
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 85
Crack 2
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 84
A Good Day to Die
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 153
Parlor Game
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 111
Brush Your Teeth
Trad, Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 39
Hallow Souls
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 57
Sticky Fingers
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 120
Hot Karl Sunday
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 90
Ice Cream Parlor Crack
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
5.6 Corner Ice Cream Parlor
 195
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Black Slab Ice Cream Parlor
 118
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Slab Route Ice Cream Parlor
 92
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Crack 1 Ice Cream Parlor
 179
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Crack 3 Ice Cream Parlor
 151
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Critical Mass Ice Cream Parlor
 110
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Happy Turk Happy Turk Hoodoo
 55
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 Aid
Crack 2 Ice Cream Parlor
 85
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
A Good Day to Die Ice Cream Parlor
 84
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Parlor Game Ice Cream Parlor
 153
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Brush Your Teeth Ice Cream Parlor
 111
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Hallow Souls Space Tower Area
 39
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Sticky Fingers Ice Cream Parlor
 57
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Hot Karl Sunday Ice Cream Parlor
 120
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Ice Cream Parlor Crack Ice Cream Parlor
 90
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
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