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Kane Springs Canyon Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Kane Springs Canyon

Abraxas Wall 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10

Bakery 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Big Brain 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Cam Burns Area 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1

Camalot Wall 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Cirque of the Climbables, The 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 6

Crusty the Clown 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Dog Wall 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

EB's Love Muscle 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1

Fall Guys Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Fickle Finger of Fate 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1

Gatherer Canyon 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 3

Grave Wall 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Happy Turk Hoodoo 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1

Homer and Marge 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1

Hunter Canyon 4 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 6

Ice Cream Parlor 28 / 18 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 41

Invert Offwidth Boulder Circuit 0 / 0 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12

Isolated Climbs 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Jackson Hole 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1

Kane Springs Campground 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Kyle's Tower 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Ledge A Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Ledge C Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Moonflower Canyon 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Mt. Everest 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Oh Chute 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Pawn of Potash 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1

Pensive Putterman 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1

Point 5,448 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Point 5,500 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Power Line Buttress, The 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Predator Tower 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Pritchett Canyon 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 4

Scorched Earth Crag 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Shelbyville 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 2

Snail Tower 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Snapparama, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1

Space Tower Area 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Stimulants Wall 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Trough Springs Wall 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Windy Ridge 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Elevation:	4,291 ft
GPS:	38.5232, -109.6024 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	444,726 total · 1,698/month
Shared By:	Tradkelly on Nov 29, 2001
Admins:	slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

Kane Springs Canyon has lots of varied climbing. Many Cutler hoodoos line the road and provide strange short climbs like mini Fisher Towers. The Ice Cream Parlor is entirely a trad area (as far as I know) on good rock on Navajo and Wingate formations, with lots of possibilities for future hard free and aid route development. Routes on various crags range from 5.8 slabs/cracks to 5.12- and C2 grade IV climbs. Primitive camping areas are located along the roadside near some of the crags, and there is a potable natural spring 2.2 miles into the dirt road. BASE jumpers frequent the Tombstones and are fun to watch, or you can do one of the long trad or free routes on them.

Getting There

From Main Street Moab (US 191), head west on Kane Creek Blvd from the McDonald's on the south end of town, or intersect Kane Creek Blvd from 400 North. Head north as you leave town, under the east-facing cliffs above town, and past the scenic chairlift. The road continues north and then turns south as it passes the Portal and parallels the river for three miles (paved), opposite Wall Street. Mark distances for rocks from the cattleguard about 3 miles along the south portion of the road, where pavement ends. A high-clearance 2WD will make the road with no problems. Expect switchbacks, graded speedbumps (difficult for low-slung vehicles), and big rocks in the roadway.

166 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Kane Springs Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 197 ● Left Slab Sport Ice Cream Parlor
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 240 ● 5.6 Corner Trad Ice Cream Parlor
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 156 ● Black Slab Sport Ice Cream Parlor
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 238 ● Crack 1 Trad Ice Cream Parlor
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 176 ● Crack 3 Trad Ice Cream Parlor
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 144 ● Critical Mass Trad Ice Cream Parlor
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 102 ● Crack 2 Trad Ice Cream Parlor
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 60 ● Hallow Souls Trad 2 pitches Space Tower Area
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 109 ● A Good Day to Die Trad Ice Cream Parlor
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 197 ● Parlor Game Sport Ice Cream Parlor
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 156 ● Brush Your Teeth Trad, Sport Ice Cream Parlor
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 80 ● Abraxas Left Trad Abraxas Wall
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 89 ● Sticky Fingers Sport Ice Cream Parlor
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 155 ● Hot Karl Sunday Sport Ice Cream Parlor
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 117 ● Ice Cream Parlor Crack Trad Ice Cream Parlor