Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Kane Springs Canyon has lots of varied climbing. Many Cutler hoodoos line the road and provide strange short climbs like mini Fisher Towers. The Ice Cream Parlor is entirely a trad area (as far as I know) on good rock on Navajo and Wingate formations, with lots of possibilities for future hard free and aid route development. Routes on various crags range from 5.8 slabs/cracks to 5.12- and C2 grade IV climbs. Primitive camping areas are located along the roadside near some of the crags, and there is a potable natural spring 2.2 miles into the dirt road. BASE jumpers frequent the Tombstones and are fun to watch, or you can do one of the long trad or free routes on them.

Getting There

From Main Street Moab (US 191), head west on Kane Creek Blvd from the McDonald's on the south end of town, or intersect Kane Creek Blvd from 400 North. Head north as you leave town, under the east-facing cliffs above town, and past the scenic chairlift. The road continues north and then turns south as it passes the Portal and parallels the river for three miles (paved), opposite Wall Street. Mark distances for rocks from the cattleguard about 3 miles along the south portion of the road, where pavement ends. A high-clearance 2WD will make the road with no problems. Expect switchbacks, graded speedbumps (difficult for low-slung vehicles), and big rocks in the roadway.

120 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Kane Springs Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 183
5.6 Corner
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 112
Black Slab
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 164
Crack 1
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 140
Crack 3
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 98
Critical Mass
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
 53
The Happy Turk
Aid
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 81
Crack 2
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 78
A Good Day to Die
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 141
Parlor Game
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 104
Brush Your Teeth
Trad, Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 35
Hallow Souls
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 53
Sticky Fingers
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 114
Hot Karl Sunday
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 87
Ice Cream Parlor Crack
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 29
Corner Route
Trad 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
5.6 Corner Ice Cream Parlor
 183
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Black Slab Ice Cream Parlor
 112
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Crack 1 Ice Cream Parlor
 164
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Crack 3 Ice Cream Parlor
 140
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Critical Mass Ice Cream Parlor
 98
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Happy Turk Happy Turk Hoodoo
 53
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 Aid
Crack 2 Ice Cream Parlor
 81
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
A Good Day to Die Ice Cream Parlor
 78
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Parlor Game Ice Cream Parlor
 141
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Brush Your Teeth Ice Cream Parlor
 104
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Hallow Souls Space Tower Area
 35
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Sticky Fingers Ice Cream Parlor
 53
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Hot Karl Sunday Ice Cream Parlor
 114
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Ice Cream Parlor Crack Ice Cream Parlor
 87
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Corner Route Cirque of the Climbab…
 29
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Kane Springs Canyon »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Just to let you know, there are a few, not many, but a few sport routes like Possessed(5.11d). The climbing here is GREAT, routes like Ice Cream Parlor(5.11a) are really fun. Apr 27, 2002
I climbed here this past weekend and was impressed. I've done a fair amount of face climbs, but this was my first time up some cracks. I don't know the names of the climbs I did, but I heard they were both 5.8's and that felt about right. All in all I loved climbing here and it was way less crowded than Wall Street! Be careful though, I had to cross a spot where the creek was running across the road, I made it in a VW Jetta, but it was a little nerve racking.

Apr 5, 2005
There's a silly lump we climbed here (just over Hurrah Pass), years ago, that we named EB's Love Muscle, after the famed desert guidebook writer.....he changed the name in the published works......Cammo Jun 21, 2007
ben jammin
Moab, UT
ben jammin   Moab, UT
I'd like to give a big thanks to Paul Buchar (I'm assuming it was you). We did 10 towers out here yesterday and out of all those dirty, mank towers only one had less than ideal anchors. I was not expecting that. Along with a few summit registers to boot, thanks Paul. Nov 5, 2013
Was just down here and found a few bolted climbs by the funnel arch trailhead. Cant find them listed. Anyone know what they are?

38°31'14.1"N 109°36'04.7"W Feb 14, 2017