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Elevation: 4,291 ft 1,308 m
GPS: 38.5232, -109.6024
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 447,996 total · 1,521/month
Shared By: Tradkelly on Nov 29, 2001
Admins: slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Kane Springs Canyon has lots of varied climbing. Many Cutler hoodoos line the road and provide strange short climbs like mini Fisher Towers. The Ice Cream Parlor is entirely a trad area (as far as I know) on good rock on Navajo and Wingate formations, with lots of possibilities for future hard free and aid route development. Routes on various crags range from 5.8 slabs/cracks to 5.12- and C2 grade IV climbs. Primitive camping areas are located along the roadside near some of the crags, and there is a potable natural spring 2.2 miles into the dirt road. BASE jumpers frequent the Tombstones and are fun to watch, or you can do one of the long trad or free routes on them.

Getting There Suggest change

From Main Street Moab (US 191), head west on Kane Creek Blvd from the McDonald's on the south end of town, or intersect Kane Creek Blvd from 400 North. Head north as you leave town, under the east-facing cliffs above town, and past the scenic chairlift. The road continues north and then turns south as it passes the Portal and parallels the river for three miles (paved), opposite Wall Street. Mark distances for rocks from the cattleguard about 3 miles along the south portion of the road, where pavement ends. A high-clearance 2WD will make the road with no problems. Expect switchbacks, graded speedbumps (difficult for low-slung vehicles), and big rocks in the roadway.

177 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Kane Springs Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 4
Luciferin
Boulder
V4 6B
 8
Spite Club
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 262
Crack 1
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 168
Critical Mass
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 70
Hallow Souls
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 190
Brush Your Teeth
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 173
Hot Karl Sunday
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2
 23
Playing Hooky
Aid 4 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 132
Ice Cream Parlor Crack
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
The Edibles
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 44
Xylokane
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 4
Best In Show
Trad 3 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 50
Corner Route
Trad 5 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 7
T-Rex
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 4
Ringlock Ranch
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Luciferin Invert Offwidth Bould…
 4
V2 5+ Boulder
Spite Club Invert Offwidth Bould…
 8
V4 6B Boulder
Crack 1 Ice Cream Parlor
 262
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Critical Mass Ice Cream Parlor
 168
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Hallow Souls Space Tower Area
 70
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Brush Your Teeth Ice Cream Parlor
 190
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Hot Karl Sunday Ice Cream Parlor
 173
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Playing Hooky Cirque of the Climbables
 23
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2 Aid 4 pitches
Ice Cream Parlor Crack Ice Cream Parlor
 132
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
The Edibles Bakery
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Xylokane Abraxas Wall
 44
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Best In Show Dog Wall
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
Corner Route Cirque of the Climbables
 50
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 5 pitches
T-Rex Ice Cream Parlor
 7
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Ringlock Ranch Trough Springs Wall
 4
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Kane Springs Canyon »

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