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Routes in Day Canyon Cragging Routes

Aerobicide T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Android Waffle Hot Line T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Another Fine Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bee Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Black Widow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brush Painted Datsun T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Christine's Way Buff Sabb T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Concepcion T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Finger Bandit T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
In the Bushes V0+ 4+
Kentucky Brown Water T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2
Kiss of the Spider Women T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pocket Rocket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thicker than Water T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown Crack Right of "Working Class Hero" T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
What Momma Don't Know T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Working Class Hero T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: T.Perkins, LJ Davis, K. Davis - 2006
Page Views: 13,416 total, 121/month
Shared By: Tom Perkins on Nov 9, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The route starts with harder moves through an overhang then easing to very fun 5.9 climbing on super cool pockets.

Location

About 200 yards in the canyon you'll see impressive pockets on the right hand wall.

Protection

8 bolts, chain anchor
D. Scott Clark
Boulder
  5.10c
D. Scott Clark   Boulder
  5.10c
Climbed PR today. Incredible route! Bolts looked solid, except the second to last was a spinner. Tricky beginning with stellar, novel climbing after. Nov 24, 2017
Julie L  
First bolt is still out and laying on the ledge. Was a pleasant surprise to see it there. Third bolt is in hollow rock and the entire climb is worthy of a wag bag if you like hearing the thunk of hollow rock on each bolt and hand hold. I was glad to get back on solid ground! Oct 9, 2017
The first bolt to this route is gone. My partner pulled it out with his hands today. Sketch! Oct 4, 2017
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Great route! If you are worried about the bolts there are many features that could be girth hitched with long slings. May 16, 2016
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Great climb, first bolt is deceptively high. This is easily my favorite sport climb for the grade in Moab. If a little sand bugs you then head over to wall street, though this is the desert soo.... Third bolt definitely shot with a gun, but the climbing past it is pretty easy. May 26, 2015
The third bolt on this climb needs to be replaced! I could see a actual crack in the hanger, looks like somebody shot it with a gun... would be cool if somebody could replace it. Oct 24, 2014
tdziedzina
Golden
  5.10c
tdziedzina   Golden
  5.10c
Very fun route. The moves to the first two bolts are definitely the crux moves. Lots of sand in the "pockets," but it's a sandstone route so I wasn't really surprised. 3rd bolt seemed sketchy.
Mar 13, 2014
paul bucher
moab, utah
 
paul bucher   moab, utah
 
fun route. easy to get to. pumpie start. five gallon bucket holds. clean; by desert standards. sportie. well worth doing. drake fired it!!! Apr 3, 2013
Tyjacobo
Salt lake city, UT
  5.10a/b PG13
Tyjacobo   Salt lake city, UT
  5.10a/b PG13
Fun climb. I would say it is a bit over rated compared to some climbs in the Moab area. It's rated 5.10c, I'd rate it 5.10a/b.
Looks like someone took a ripper on the 3rd bolt. It's sticking out of the wall about 3/4". The rock quality overall is pretty soft, which made me wish it had a 3 bolt anchor like most other climbs in the Moab area, instead of 2.
The crux is at the very beginning. It can be stick clipped. After the 2nd bolt its pretty easy. Sandy and loose though. Helmets are good here.
Dec 8, 2012
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
 
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
 
Worth doing once, one star for the climbing and one star for the uniqueness of the route. The 3/8" bolts aren't very inspiring, and the 3rd has been used for target practice, so it now spins and sticks out of the wall some. And yeah, it's a little sandy, but come on, this is hueco choss climbing in the desert, what did you expect? Oct 19, 2010
Connor.Donahue
Portland OR
Connor.Donahue   Portland OR
This was so sandy, I'd never climb it ever again. Jun 8, 2010
The holds are definitely solid. Steep start!! Excellent route. May 31, 2009
A. Roberts
Boulder, CO
A. Roberts   Boulder, CO
Cool looking route. Are the holds solid? Good job. Nov 10, 2008