Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Earl Wiggins and Katy Cassidy, 1988
Page Views: 282 total · 6/month
Shared By: John Hovell on Oct 11, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Start at the right side of a loose pillar to gain access to a splitter thin hand crack which widens to a hand crack, past a few wedged blocks, eventually transitioning left to a splitter different hand crack for about 50 feet. Finish with a few moves of fist/offwidth over a small roof/bulge to gain anchors to the left of the crack.

Location

Hike in Day Canyon past Working Class Hero, continue on the old jeep trail for another 5 minutes or so. On the right side, identify a striking dihedral with at least 2 anchors visible from the trail, followed by to the left a shorter dihedral guarded by a wide OW/chimney slot/roof. Route further to the left. It is an obvious thin hands to OW splitter at the top of loose hueco-studded buttress. I think a 70m would make it down fine, though we climbed with an 80m. The anchor consists of a drilled piton, an old but serviceable kong 1/4 bolt and a 3rd buttonhead bolt, and could probably stand replacing.

Protection

Double rack from #0.75 to #3 Camalots, single #4 Camalot, a few long runners. Optional, a few micro cams for the start.

Photos

jakobi
moab, utah
jakobi   moab, utah
Might be Bee Line? FA Earl Wiggins and Katy Cassidy 88. Oct 13, 2014
John Hovell
San Francisco, California
  5.10c
John Hovell   San Francisco, California
  5.10c
jakobi, I think you are probably right. And a much better name too! I'll change the title. Thanks! Oct 13, 2014
aschmidt  
 
The plaque appears to say "Pee Line". This route doesn't match the description in the Kelley book well. Good route at any rate. The starting ramp isn't too chossy and can be protected with small stoppers and TCUs. The wedged blocks 10' up the splitter are a bit scary. Bring more than doubles in 2 and 3 Camalots unless you really want to run it out. A 70 m rope is sufficient to lower. Nov 12, 2015
aparnas  
I agree wtih aschmidt concerning bringing more than doubles of #2 cams. Climbed this today with a double rack up to #4, and I was wishing real hard for another pair of 2s... You can see where the rock has been chipped all the way up the edges of the splitter from people trying to force a #3 in. This route is long enough and of a consistent enough size to warrant bringing three BD #2s, if not four, IMHO. Also, a #5 might fit the OW better than a #4. Apr 13, 2016