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Areas in Sunshine Wall

Dickfour 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1
Golden Child Area 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Little Miss Sunshine 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1
Sunshine Wall Routes 6 / 11 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Tower 143 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1
Tuhinga Tower 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 4,928 ft
GPS: 38.861, -109.742 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 58,596 total · 322/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on May 16, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


The Sunshine Wall is a long formation of Wingate sandstone that runs north to south for probably a mile or more. To the north (left) side of the formation, the walls are slabby with routes having mixed bolts and natural pro. The southern part of the formation has small twisted towers and steeper rock.

Getting There

Sunshine Wall can either be reached by driving roads east from US 191 or by going through Arches NP on a gravel road. Probably the fastest way is from 191. Look for a good non-paved road heading east between mile markers 152 and 153. Drive about a mile, and then take a right immediately after crossing a small bridge. In another ~2 miles, take a right at a T-junction. From here start looking for Sunshine Wall. It will be obvious on the left, and a mild 4WD road cuts off left to the base.

To get to the Sunshine Wall through the park, take a left on Salt Valley trail and follow it to the edge of the park, which is obvious with a fence and a cattle guard. Keep going a couple of miles and watch for Sunshine Wall on the right.

20 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sunshine Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Learning Curve
Trad, Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad, Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Melanoma Shuffle
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love Hurts
Trad, Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Neopolitan Corner
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Science Friction
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lesson in Braille
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Walking on Sunshine
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Golden Child
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Learning Curve Sunshine Wall Routes
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Sport
Tezcatlipoca Sunshine Wall Routes
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Sport
Melanoma Shuffle Sunshine Wall Routes
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Love Hurts Sunshine Wall Routes
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Neopolitan Corner Sunshine Wall Routes
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Science Friction Sunshine Wall Routes
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Sport
Lesson in Braille Sunshine Wall Routes
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Walking on Sunshine Sunshine Wall Routes
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Golden Child Golden Child Area
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Brainiac Sunshine Wall Routes
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Sunshine Wall »

Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season
This road to the sunshine wall can be a serious quagmire if there has been any recent precip. It is that "moondust" type stuff that turns into a burley slick clay when wet. We got our 2wd car stuck up to the doors trying to "go for it". Just a heads up. the newer looking line on the wall (this sight shows it as "melanoma shuffle") was a fun route, and the hidden bolt at the "roof" was a happy surprise. Fun route! Jun 11, 2005
Loveland, Co
westy   Loveland, Co
Note.....after the "T" go right for about 1.5 miles and take the second left turn,,,,,,caution,,,,,you need a 4 x 4 for this or stop short becuase you will get stuck in the soft sand. The rock is brown, white and red just like the neopolitan ice cream. Jun 10, 2006
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
A group of friends ventured out to do these cool climbs a few years ago;.... the slab climbs were cool, but not as cool as the "coyboy" petroglyphs on the boulders;....the naked lady one was a favorite of our clan of climbers. This place is really worth a visit;'s stark, quiet ( I hope) , and quite beautiful. A place to experience and enjoy with pals. Apr 28, 2007
These climbs do not exist within the park boundaries. Aug 31, 2007
Dave Fiorucci
Boulder, Colorado
Dave Fiorucci   Boulder, Colorado
I am heading to Moab. Does anybody know if you can bring dogs to the Sunshie Wall.., It looks like camping is an option from the photo, but is it pay per use or is it primitive camping? Sep 25, 2007
Primitive camping. Dogs OK. Really pretty cool area that doesn't seem to attract a lot of people. Sep 26, 2007
rob bauer
Golden, CO
rob bauer   Golden, CO
If you camp there, there are also some routes farther left, North, of the Sunshine wall proper, in a shallow amplitheater. They are moderate and leadable, with bolts in place; but some of the anchor bolts didn't have anchors in 2005. Fun to do if you have a few hours to spend. A single rope will do the trick. Aug 25, 2010
jason malczyk
General Delivery
jason malczyk   General Delivery
There are two unknown routes on the right slabs. One is right of Science Friction seemed 5.11, crimpy through roof. Other was right of and shared anchors with Walking on Sunshine. Nov 5, 2010
Stewart Green's book says that a 70m rope will work for sunshine wall. This is NOT true for the science friction slab. The slab has great climbs, but bring two ropes up with you so you don't have to leave a piece on the wall! Mar 21, 2017

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