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Routes in Sunshine Wall Routes

Brainiac S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dislaberal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Learning Curve T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lesson in Braille S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Love Hurts T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Melanoma Shuffle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mosquito Coast T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neopolitan Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Science Friction S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Sunset Skydive S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tezcatlipoca T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tumbleweed Inferno S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walking on Sunshine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Baker
Page Views: 3,017 total, 15/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Apr 30, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/… -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

I like silly puns. This is perhaps the best of the slab routes established here by Mike Baker and his friends, (if only because of the name).This is the rightmost of the face routes, on this nice slab. They get harder as you move left to right, as the slab curves into a steeper configuration further right. The rock is better as the angle steepens up too, so this climb is mostly on great varnished Wingate, rather than the pale gritty fleshy stuff the easier routes waddle up.The pitch starts with thin moves to climb straight up to the first bolt. Or sidle across from the left to avoid this bit.The climbing is superb, linking crispy edges, on beautiful rippled stone, with a variety of mantels and high steps. The moves at the third (?) bolt are not easy. You smear right and clamber up onto a (not very) rounded protuberance. If you are real confident on thin smeary face, you'll have no trouble, but more slab-challenged folks (like myself) will struggle to get established on the lump, from where the next bolt becomes clippable. Above this a ridiculously tenuous smear move on perfect black Wingate, luckily with a bolt in front of your face. There is an odd finger/toe-pocket hereabouts. Not very natural-looking, in just the right place to step up into. Maybe this was going to be a bolt-hole. It's not entirely necessary. Grunt right here to a big foot-ledge. Relax. Step left and up onto more sandy ripply territory and much more generic climbing, with ever bigger scallops. Forge upwards to the anchors.

Protection

Pro is quickdraws. maybe about eight or ten.

Photos

Justin Compton
Lafayette, CO
  5.10c/d
Justin Compton   Lafayette, CO
  5.10c/d
Bring some webbing or cord to replace the sun faded webbing that's up there. The anchor is one bolt and a piton equalized with webbing. May 30, 2011
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
This was the hardest of the named routes here. I kept asking for a wisk broom to clean off the holds. None of these routes have much in the way of thick desert varnish to protect the surface, so the edges are rounding down. Powerful moves in a cool location. Aug 25, 2010