Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Mike Baker
Page Views: 19,420 total · 91/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Apr 30, 2003 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is short, kinda silly, and the climbing is not particularly memorable. However, the approach is a nice hike, with great views, the glade/meadow where this feature is located is a very cute little spot, and the feature itself is a ridiculous shape; a penguin with a blindfold. Maybe it's a labrador puppy. it's very friendly anyway.Approach by hiking up a ledge/stratum from your car. Up and up and up, until you summit the highest point of the ridge. Then contour down (north) and around to enter the penguin's garden.The route begins up a short crack. This is allegedly 5.5, in Bjornstad's book. Hmmmm. You can avoid this by a runout face bit to the right; much more pleasant. I chose the wide crack, and struggled. The final short face is steep, ledgy and fun. See how far you dare step out onto the penguin's bill...Enjoy.

Note: This tower is located here: 38°51'17.6"N 109°43'49.5"W
The 2 mile trailhead is near Sunshine Wall but this climb is not on the same wall as the others listed. The tower sits amid a complex plateau above the main tier. The trailhead begins to the west of the main wall and slowly ascends a ramp system atop the main wall which opens out onto this plateau.

goo.gl/maps/YrTefMMXjMC2

Protection

A handful of quickdraws and a couple 4 to 5-inch cams for the start.

Photos