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Routes in Sunshine Wall Routes

Brainiac S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dislaberal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Learning Curve T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lesson in Braille S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Love Hurts T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Melanoma Shuffle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mosquito Coast T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neopolitan Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Science Friction S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Sunset Skydive S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tezcatlipoca T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tumbleweed Inferno S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walking on Sunshine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 40 ft
FA: Mike Baker
Page Views: 15,569 total, 88/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Apr 30, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/… -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is short, kinda silly, and the climbing is not particularly memorable. However, the approach is a nice hike, with great views, the glade/meadow where this feature is located is a very cute little spot, and the feature itself is a ridiculous shape; a penguin with a blindfold. Maybe it's a labrador puppy. it's very friendly anyway.Approach by hiking up a ledge/stratum from your car. Up and up and up, until you summit the highest point of the ridge. Then contour down (north) and around to enter the penguin's garden.The route begins up a short crack. This is allegedly 5.5, in Bjornstad's book. Hmmmm. You can avoid this by a runout face bit to the right; much more pleasant. I chose the wide crack, and struggled. The final short face is steep, ledgy and fun. See how far you dare step out onto the penguin's bill...Enjoy.

Protection

A handful of quickdraws and a couple 4 to 5-inch cams for the start.
zaq
zaq  
Climbed this a few weeks ago. The webbing at the top was sunbaked pretty good but still had some life left. I would suggest bringing new webbing and replacing it. Apr 14, 2017
nruea
. . . CO
nruea   . . . CO

Great location. . . love it up there. . . and a nice ~2 mile hike from camp.
Or climb one of those base cracks to access the upper level, and you're looking at .5 mile approach.
Cool little formation worth scrambling up! Nov 25, 2016
Keith W
  5.7
Keith W  
  5.7
Great hike to a beautiful spot. The climb was fun but definitely a one move wonder. We added some new webbing to the anchors up top. The old webbing looked ok but it was pretty clear it had been baking in the sun for some time. May 19, 2015
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.6 PG13
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.6 PG13
A good hike to a nice summit in a very cool location. But, the climbing was meh. The highlight was beers on the summit! Mar 31, 2015
TLob
 
TLob  
 
If you enjoy beautiful hikes this is a must do. The climb is okay but the formation is awesome! In order to avoid crushing cryptobiotic soil on the bench as you head up stay left in the wash until you reach the uppermost point of the hike then scramble over the ridge and down to the "squat tower" in the description. Mar 21, 2014
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Fun climb and actually worth the hike, especially since it's such a nice hike. Watch the Crypto!

Have to agree with the guidebook on this one, definately the easiest offwidth/chimney I've ever climbed. The friction in the crack and on the slab is excellent. The crux at the top is a little technical so I'll split the difference. ;-) May 1, 2012
Finally ticked this cool looking tower. I parked at the naked women petroglyph, hiked 4 miles all the way around the bend, it's further than you think, then hiked half way back on the top. Made my way down into the canyon, felt way the hell out there. It's really short and I brought way to much gear. I rope soloed it, brought a #2,#3 camalot for the anchor at the bottom, worked my way up the OW, the then placed a .3 C3, clipped the bolt and was at the top. Other towers in the area look really good, and the climbs at the sunshine wall are fun. 8 miles total for 40' of climbing. Total adventure and great views the entire way. How much do you like hiking in sand?? Mar 10, 2012
RIck Norman
Glenwood springs, co
 
RIck Norman   Glenwood springs, co
 
Make sure you know where you are going before hand. Took me a bit to find... excellent view once on top and a great lead climb for a beginner like myself. Apr 16, 2011
paul bucher
moab, utah
paul bucher   moab, utah
easy to get to, easy to find the start to the approach. stick close to the drainage on approach and decent. a bit confusing upon arrival because you can not see the overhang. your looking directly at the route. can be done with 3 or 4 peaces. a big hex, a small cam, and a draw. #1 camalot optional. circle around south to good drainages to enter garden. new red sling as of this date on top, with nice bolts. this thing doe's not see a lot of accents. the booze bottle for the summit register was a nice touch. mando for the oddball tower rat or someone looking to scoop an easy one. May 16, 2010
TuFF GonG
gunnison Colorado
 
TuFF GonG   gunnison Colorado
 
Funny "handful of quickdraws" seeing there's only one bolt. Though the one bolt protects the route pretty well. Oct 10, 2007
RoadTripRyan
Salt Lake City, UT
 
RoadTripRyan   Salt Lake City, UT
 
When I did this, I placed a #4 Camalot at the top of the crack, a couple of TCU's in a horizontal crack below the drilled piton, then a quickdraw for the piton.

Fun tower. Great setting.

-RoadtripRyan Dec 11, 2005
Sorry, I thought Peter Gram wrote out some pretty clear instructions as to how to get to Sunshine Wall. This is not in Arches National Park, it is just outside, immediately north. Simplest thing is to drive 17 (?-I forget exactly) miles north of Moab on 191 to get to the turn-off. The main parking spot is pretty obvious, at the far left end of the wall (the road starts to get rougher after this, and soon becomes real 4x4 after a quarter mile or so, and the hike approach is up the obvious slanting ledgey strata from close to the car up and right, just like it says. You can see the tower when you hike the bottom of the cliff, but you cannot access it from here.

Maybe you don't want to spring for a guidebook, but I'd expect folks to read the Sunshine Wall page with Peter Gram's instructions before demanding more info here. The Visitor Center in Moab will give you a free Utah road map too. Browse the guidebook in Pagan or the Visitor Center and put it back on the shelf. Please, if you expect to get much out of desert climbing, be prepared to have to invest something. Either money in guidebooks, or else some time and effort. This ain't Shelf Road.

Beter to think of this website as another resource for finding and enjoying desert climbs. It's not a guidebook. I don't think it's a replacement for a guidebook. Mar 11, 2004
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
Yes, of course... Get the guidebook and completely eliminate the purpose of this site. Get a job, man. I support the climbing community as much as I have the opportunity to (mountain clean-ups and the like), but it seems to me the purpose of this site is to provide concise information about climbs in/near Moab. For those of us who don't live there and can't drive there every weekend, a guidebook is hardly a worthy expenditure. Plus, having a print-out from this site and other like it means having something of a souvenir for an on-sight or whathaveyou. And finally TuffGong, you didn't have ANY qualms with posting three routes on the site with beta so far. Why the anxiety/reluctance to help out a fellow cragger/crack-er (no pun intended)? Oct 1, 2003
Get the guidebook! You will be supporting the climbing community and opening your mind to a world of classic climbs! Jul 27, 2003
And this is located where in the park??? Assume I don't have the guidebook you've listed as a reference. Thanks. Jul 5, 2003