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Routes in Sunshine Wall Routes

Brainiac S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dislaberal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Learning Curve T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lesson in Braille S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Love Hurts T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Melanoma Shuffle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mosquito Coast T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neopolitan Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Science Friction S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Sunset Skydive S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tezcatlipoca T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tumbleweed Inferno S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walking on Sunshine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: Baker '99
Page Views: 5,291 total, 30/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on May 12, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/… -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is on the obvious slab towards the north side of the Sunshine Wall. It starts about twenty-five feet right of an obvious crack which runs through a small roof.

A large ledge is reached about 20 feet up. Either go left and scramble up to the ledge, or do a direct start with a bolt (probably 5.8). From the ledge, follow the right most of three lines that go to the anchors in the center of the face. One tough move around the 3rd fixed piece, and the rest is about 5.7. Rappel with either two ropes or one 60m rope barely reaches the upper ledge.

Protection

8 fixed pieces (2 are drilled angles). Possible hand size cam above first bolt.

Photos

Michael Gilbert
Salt Lake City
  5.9-
Michael Gilbert   Salt Lake City
  5.9-
Fun, well protected, great route to get used to the sandstone slab climbing technique. A number 2 Camalot is nice to have for protecting the climb between bolts one and two, the only part of the climb that is runout at all. Feb 19, 2014