All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Sunshine Wall > Sunshine Wall Routes

Science Friction

Name: Science Friction
Rating: 3.0

5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British PG13

Routes in Sunshine Wall Routes

L › R R › L A › Z

	Brainiac S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Learning Curve T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lesson in Braille S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Love Hurts T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Melanoma Shuffle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mosquito Coast T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Neopolitan Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Science Friction S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
	Sunset Skydive S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Tezcatlipoca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tumbleweed Inferno S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Unknown TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Walking on Sunshine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type:	Sport, 160 ft (48 m)
FA:	Mike Baker, solo. (5-1-98)
Page Views:	13,950 total · 77/month
Shared By:	DaveB on Oct 19, 2007
Admins:	slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

A nice route, especially for aspiring slab leaders. (Yes, there are such people...)

Technical crux is well protected (between bolts 3-5). The "mental" crux begins mid-route at the odd and tricky right-angling seam (sandy in spots). A couple widely-spaced drilled pitons protect this section. Follow seam to top.

Occasional rests....to reflect and question yourself, of course.

Location

Quarter mile right of the the Naked Lady Boulder (cowboy art). The tallest section of Sunshine Wall. Route (bolted) begins low center of face, right of large boulder, and stays left of obvious crescent/sickle feature mid-wall.