All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Sunshine Wall > Sunshine Wall Routes

Brainiac

Name: Brainiac
Rating: 2.5

5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in Sunshine Wall Routes

L › R R › L A › Z

	Brainiac S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Learning Curve T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lesson in Braille S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Love Hurts T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Melanoma Shuffle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mosquito Coast T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Neopolitan Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Science Friction S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
	Sunset Skydive S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Tezcatlipoca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tumbleweed Inferno S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Unknown TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Walking on Sunshine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type:	Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Brian Shelton, Stewart Green, Dennis Jump. May 15, 2010.
Page Views:	1,573 total · 17/month
Shared By:	jakobi on Oct 14, 2014
Admins:	slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

More slab climbing! Do some easy slabbin' to the first bolt and do a tricky mantel to reach the second. The crux comes just past this with a very thin move with terrible feet to reach some small edges. A taller climber might have a significantly easier time on this section that someone of average height. Beyond the third bolt the climbing eases up, continuing at 5.10 past seven more bolts. Anchors are two bolts currently equipped with a quicklink and a carabiner.

Location

Brainiac is the right-most route of the Sunshine Wall slabs, roughly 100 m climbers right of the Science Friction Slab. Just right of Walking on Sunshine.