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Routes in Sunshine Wall Routes

Brainiac S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dislaberal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Learning Curve T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lesson in Braille S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Love Hurts T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Melanoma Shuffle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mosquito Coast T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neopolitan Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Science Friction S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Sunset Skydive S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tezcatlipoca T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tumbleweed Inferno S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walking on Sunshine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: Henderson & Baker '98
Page Views: 10,337 total, 58/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on May 12, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/… -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is on the obvious slab towards the north side of the Sunshine Wall. It starts about ten feet right of an obvious crack which runs through a small roof.

A large ledge is reached about 20 feet up. Either go left and scramble up to the ledge, or do a direct start with a bolt (probably 5.8). From the ledge, immediately clip a bolt. Then follow an insipient crack through bolts and occasional gear up the slab to a two-bolt fixed anchor. Rappel with either two ropes or one 60m rope barely reaches the upper ledge.

Protection

Mixed pro and bolts. 5 bolts (with an optional 6th for a direct start). Aliens and small tri-cams for gear. I used a red alien and a #1 tri-cam.

Photos

Did this route with a 70m starting on the higher ledge (skipping the first bolt). Was able to double rope rap back to the upper belay ledge. A 70m does not make it to the lower ledge. Bring #0.3 to #1 (BD) cams to protect the runouts. Nov 25, 2016
Walt Barker
Reno NV
 
Walt Barker   Reno NV
 
Very enjoyable route. Most would consider the bolts to be a bit run-out. Luckily, several excellent cam placements appear right when you need them. I put in a #1&2 C3, and several C4,s up to #1. Well thought-out route. Jul 8, 2012
I would recommend doing this with a few cams. It's definently runout if you dont use them. You can barely reach the ledge (about 10-15 feet off the ground) with a 70m rope. May 2, 2012
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Great route. I think it's important to note that this climb starts up a crack near the center of the wall, and traverses right just before the crack ends, to gain a second crack that starts at that point. May 2, 2012