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Routes in Sunshine Wall Routes
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Brainiac S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Learning Curve T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lesson in Braille S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Love Hurts T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Melanoma Shuffle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mosquito Coast T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Neopolitan Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Science Friction S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sunset Skydive S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Tezcatlipoca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tumbleweed Inferno S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Walking on Sunshine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 38.8607, -109.7425 |
| FA: | Henderson & Baker '98 |
| Page Views: | 15,968 total · 57/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Gram on May 12, 2003 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
This route is on the obvious slab towards the north side of the Sunshine Wall. It starts about ten feet right of an obvious crack which runs through a small roof.
A large ledge is reached about 20 feet up. Either go left and scramble up to the ledge, or do a direct start with a bolt (probably 5.8). From the ledge, immediately clip a bolt. Then follow an insipient crack through bolts and occasional gear up the slab to a two-bolt fixed anchor. Rappel with either two ropes or one 70m rope barely reaches the upper ledge.
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