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Routes in The Trojan

Everyman's Endless Edge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1+
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Type: Trad, Aid, 1200 ft, 17 pitches, Grade VI
FA: James Garrett and Tyler Phillips, 30 September 2006 (six climbing days)
Page Views: 6,761 total · 48/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Nov 21, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Location

West Ridge of the Trojan. After crossing Onion Creek, find the 2-3rd class little canyon that is aimed directly at the South Face of the Titan. The first rock buttress encountered on the right is the start. Look for a right facing dihedral with a bolt visible about 10m up. This was placed to avoid disturbing a huge loose death flake in the crack at the time. This flake/block was trundled afterwards.

Protection

All bolts were left with hangers. One full set of Camalots from micros to #5. A good selection of pitons from beaks to blades and LAs. Long generally better than short. Some pitons were left in place where expected repeated placements and removal would damage the rock. Take some additional slings to replace sun damaged rappel anchors.

Description

Once on EEE, finding the route should not present any particular problems. It follows the ridge or spur (Edge) the entire way and rap anchors are available on all the towers to continue on the route which basically traverses from west to east. We called it "Everyman's EE" because we felt neither trickery and special aid gear nor an inordinate amount of courage is obligatory for subsequent climbers doing this route. It represents, due to its traversing nature, perhaps a new wave in the Fisher Tower area, yet never seems very desperate or too scary. We found the rock, for the most part, excellent quality for the area.

Pitch #1: Ascend the Chocolate Corners passing three bolts (placed to avoid a large hanging flake in the crack) to a tight squeeze section to a ledge and two bolt belay. 5.8, A0.

Pitch #2: Climb the Johnny Rotten Ridge into a gully past two bolts to the two bolt belay. 5.6, A1.

Pitch #3: Climb The Pancake Stack passing some funky nailing, two bolts and some dusty scrambling to another two bolt belay. 5.5, A1.

Pitch #4: Pass some pockets and bolts to a chimney to a nice ledge and two bolt belay.

Pitch #5: Cams and thin pins to a 5 bolt ladder brings the climber to a ledge. Continue around the corner to the left (5.6) and climb the wide OW protected by two bolts to another ledge, then round the tower (The Pancake)to the belay. 5.6, A1+.

Pitch #6: Chimney between the two towers and step across from the top of The Pancake to The Land of Joseph (the name of our favorite pancake syrup). Two bolts will assist you in reaching The Land OF Joseph summit and two bolt belay . 5.9+ or A1.

Pitch #7: Rappel to the notch and climb through an interesting chimney filled with two chockstones to a two bolt belay. 5.7.

Pitch #8: "The Lightbulb Part Deux". Mantle up to a big pocket and bolt ladder to some chossy easy climbing through the summit notch to the two bolt belay. 5.6, A1.

Pitch #9: An angling airy rap takes you to the notch and the belay...continue right on a nice ledge to a wide chimney. Belay on the ledge above. Potential great bivy. 5.10 or A0.

Pitch #10: "The Hummingbird Perch". Climb the moderate crack which widens to 3 bolts and a two bolt belay. A hummingbird greeted us on top. 5.8, A1.

Pitch #11: 3rd class down and lower off of a piton. The option of two gullies, take the left and much easy scrambling for a full rope length finds a two bolt belay on a slab. 5.4.

Pitch #12: Climb slabs to a notch between two towers and belay. 4th class.

Pitch #13: Climb on the left to the belay. 4th class.

Pitch #14: A crack to a bolt to some easy aid to another "summit". Step across and traverse right across the slab and belay. 5.8 or A1.

Pitch #15: "The Trojan Horse Pitch". Move left up the steepening final Tower passing some awkward steps to a good ledge under an overhang and belay. 5.9.

Pitch #16: "The Reservoir Tip". Make your way through some steep overlaps passing a bolt and fixed pin. Around the corner and past two more bolts brings one to a ledge and two-bolt belay. Great rock. A1.

Pitch #17: Fun and creative nailing protect this pitch up a left facing corner, then move right to a right facing corner and easier climbing to the final summit. 5.9, A0.

Descent: Sign in at the register and rap two 50m raps to the ground. Hike down paralleling the ridge line to near the top of Pitch #11....one long rappel takes one to the top of a scree field which leads back to the gully. This will make sense as you climb the route and see where it would be logical to descend. Cairns mark the way from the scree field back to the gully and to Onion Creek.

Location

West Ridge of the Trojan. After crossing Onion Creek, find the 2-3rd class little canyon that is aimed directly at the south Face of the Titan. The first rock buttress encountered on the right is the start. Look for a right facing dihedral with a bolt visible about 10m up. This was placed to avoid disturbing a huge loose death flake in the crack at the time. This flake/block was trundled afterwards.

Protection

All bolts were left with hangers. One full set of Camalots from micros to #5. A good selection of pitons from beaks to blades and LAs. Long generally better than short. Some pitons were left in place where expected repeated placements and removal would damage the rock. Take some additional slings to replace sun damaged rappel anchors.
Clay and I just climbed the second ascent of this awesome route over a day and a half. The route went all clean at 5.9 C2.
If you are looking for a shorter version of this it would be easy to walk up to below the 7th pitch, and climb a 60' moderate pitch to get to the base of pitch 7. Also the tower on pitch 8 and the rappel can be avoided with a short pitch to the right. This short pitch would put you at the start of pitch 9.

We rappelled from the summit to the ground with a one full 60 meter rappel. We were unable to find a fixed anchor for the next rappel to the scree field so we scrambled down a gulley and rappelled off a tree under pitch 10 or 11. This rappel was around 100'.

Big thanks to James and Tyler for putting in all the hard work!

FYI the pens in the register on top of "hummingbirds perch" don't work, so bring a pencil along. Feb 14, 2014
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
This looks pretty amazing, but I get the distinct feeling that I am being sandbagged. Mar 23, 2015

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