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Chris Weidner on the crux roof. Photo: Celin Serbo...
Centaur is a spectacular and varied route on the right side of the Prow of Tower Two, which parallels the last pitches of The Naked Edge
and Diving Board
. The steep corner and roof pitch was first aid climbed (A3) in 1967. Two decades later (late 1980s or early 1990s) it was retro-bolted as a sport pitch, but it hadn't been freed.
Climb the first 5 pitches of Redguard
105757837(easily combined into 3 pitches). Traverse 15 feet left on the maroon band (loose) to a sloping belay with one good bolt, one bad bolt, and gear. Looming above is a steep corner and roof with bolts.
P1. Struggle up the overhanging corner (bizarre body English) to the roof. Burly underclings with poor feet lead to liebacks, tips jams, and a deceptively tricky exit to the old hanging belay [*bad gear, an uncomfortable stance, and no pro for the next 15 feet make this a poor belay]. Shake out here, then tackle the short, red roof to a no-hands stance at the first protection bolt of the last pitch.
8 bolts, fixed HB offset, RPs; 55 feet; 13c.
P2. This is an amazing pitch, first freed by Christian Griffith in 1986.
Ascend the vertical face past several old bolts (need replacement) and gear to a striking seam in a hanging plaque of stone. Jam, crimp, and paste your way up the seam (RPs, tiny cams) to a steep finish in a dihedral. It is best to belay at a tree 40 feet beyond the lip of the wall.
4 bolts, 1 pin, gear; 85 feet; 12c.
Centaur (top 2 pitches only):
RPs, small-medium nuts, 1ea. #000 C3 - #1 Camalot.
Complete route (starting from the ground):
Add 1 each #2, #3 Camalots.
By Chris N
From: Loveland, Co
Aug 3, 2015
Where is the new in this new 1st ascent? How does this differ from the old aid climb Centaur?
By Chris Weidner
Aug 6, 2015
Chris N., this differs from the aid route only in that the crux has now been free climbed, which typically warrants "new" or "first" status.