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Centaur 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a [details]
FA: FFA: Chris Weidner, Nov. 20, 2012, with Heather Weidner and Bruce Miller
New Route: Yes
Fixed Hardware: 6 Lead Bolts, 4 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,217
Submitted By: Chris Weidner on Nov 24, 2012
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Chris Weidner on the crux roof. Photo: Celin Serbo...
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  • Description 

    Centaur is a spectacular and varied route on the right side of the Prow of Tower Two, which parallels the last pitches of the Naked Edge and Diving Board. The steep corner and roof pitch was first aid climbed (A3) in 1967. Two decades later (late 1980s or early 1990s) it was retro-bolted as a sport pitch, but it hadn't been freed.

    Climb the first 5 pitches of Redguard (easily combined into 3 pitches). Traverse 15 feet left on the maroon band (loose) to a sloping belay with one good bolt, one bad bolt, and gear. Looming above is a steep corner and roof with bolts.

    P1: Struggle up the overhanging corner (bizarre body English) to the roof. Burly underclings with poor feet lead to liebacks, tips jams, and a deceptively tricky exit to the old hanging belay. [*Bad gear, an uncomfortable stance, and no pro for the next 15 feet make this a poor belay.] Shake out here, then tackle the short, red roof to a no-hands stance at the first protection bolt of the last pitch.

    Bolt, fixed HB offset, RPs.
    8 bolts; 55 feet; 13c.

    P2: An amazing pitch, first freed by Christian Griffith in 1986.
    Ascend the vertical face past several old bolts (need replacement) and gear to a striking seam in a hanging plaque of stone. Jam, crimp, and paste your way up the seam (RPs, tiny cams) to a steep finish in a dihedral. It is best to belay at a tree 40 feet beyond the lip of the wall.

    4 bolts, 1 pin, gear; 85 feet; 12c.


    Protection 

    Centaur (top 2 pitches only):
    RPs, small-medium nuts, 1ea. #000 C3 - #1 Camalot.

    Complete route (starting from the ground):
    Add 1ea #2, #3 Camalots.



    Photos of Centaur Slideshow Add Photo
    Chris Weidner beginning the crux of the 12c pitch. Photo: Celin Serbo
    Chris Weidner beginning the crux of the 12c pitch....
    Heather Weidner rapping over the crux roof for another work session on the 13c pitch.
    Heather Weidner rapping over the crux roof for ano...
    Comments on Centaur Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By PatrickV
    From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
    Nov 25, 2012

    Nice job, Chris!