Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication
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Lindsay Duca stylin' through the crux of Armed and...
A Rumney classic that deserves a spot on every 5.10 climbers tick list. Most commonly referred to as just "Armed and Dangerous" minus the long-winded, second half of the name, it is the center piece of its crag and for good reason. Varied climbing from technical, slabby, face climbing to a super cool, steep, jug haul that can give some exposure for its relatively small size. If you pump out, fear not the falls are all air as you climb out the intimidating exit moves.
To the right of the start of Cereal Killer (5.11c, which climbs out of the cave at the cliff base) you will start up easier rock to a line of bolts on a slab surmounting a few bulges these moves, not the steeps at the top are the true crux of the route. At the top of the slab, take a rest and look up at the looming steepness. Move quickly through this part, as it can sap one's energy fast. After the steep stuff is over, good holds lead up and left to anchors.
Armed and Dangerous tends to dry quickly so most non-rainy days it is in good condition.
The very top of the climb has been changed to make room for another route to the right. This doesn't take away from the route's quality and its new neighbor is yet another fun 5.10.
Middle of the cliff, up slabs and a steep roofish section at the top. Right of Cereal Killer (5.11c).
10 bolts to anchor.
|Photos of Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication Slideshow
Lindsay Duca climbing the upper headwall on Armed ...
Cliff on Armed and Dangerous
Cliff on the steep upper section
Nicole kurth doing the roof the way i do it...
Nicole just finishing up...
BETA PHOTO: Jakob cruising past the crux
|Comments on Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication
|By Chris Duca|
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Mar 24, 2007
Hands down, one of the best 10s at Rumney. As a side note, the new route to the right of Armed and Dangerous, though not official yet, has been named "Clusterphobia" and is 11a.
|By lee hansche|
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 24, 2007
Clusterphobia is very fun for sure.... I had heard 5.10d, but I wouldn't argue with either grade....
|By Ladd Raine|
From: Plymouth, NH
May 3, 2007
If you are with someone that will be toproping the climb several times you should climb up and right to anchors of clusterphobia, it is a straighter line so the pendulum won't be so bad if they fall. Also remember to put in some directionals on the overhanging section, so they can get back on.
|By Victor McConnell|
Sep 19, 2007
For a little adventure, continue climbing past the top of Armed and Dangerous. A variety of paths can be taken, 5.7-5.8, for another pitch. Walk-off to the left.
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 20, 2009
got on this for the first time today it was excellent definatly one of my favorites
|By Tim Wolsonovich|
Sep 19, 2010
Great fun. Love the jug haul section after the slabby part is over. Wish that horizontal was small enough for a fist jam, but maybe I just couldn't find it...
|By S. Neoh|
Apr 8, 2011
Does anyone still do the original finish to this route?
At the top of the slab, go left. Reach the huge flake, continue left. Plug a #2 or #3 Camalot in at some point and finish up left still to a grassy ledge with a large tree on it. There used to be slings and rap rings on this tree.
For added spice down low, skip the bolt just below the crux pod. That bolt is relatively new. We used to plug a cam into the flaring pod (yes, where you want your hand to be!) instead and go for it after taking a deep breath. I think a 0.5 or 0.4 Camalot is the cam for the pod. Be careful and double check this placement if you choose to go slightly spicy.