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5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 52
Scratchy
Apr 10, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. w client. do as 2nd pitch from 5.1 below. belayed rappel from ledge to base. tricky crux (reach)
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 55
Cakewalk
Apr 8, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. w DM. used the #4 but could pretty easily skip it. did use from .2 to 2 and a couple tricams (pink, blue) and nuts (10 and 12). anchor on p 3 is pretty far back (dead tree)
Trad 3 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 95
Wanderlust
Apr 8, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. w DM. used .5, #1, pink and red tricam. 7 draws is enough.
Trad 2 pitches
WI2+ Steep Snow
 49
Parasol Gully
Apr 6, 2021 · 3 pitches. Lead / Redpoint. w. MB and MH for mentor day. 6 screws is plenty. a .5 and a #1 is playing it safe, too. placed 3 screws on crux pitch.
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 27
Little Monalisa
Apr 5, 2021 · Solo. Left side.
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 58
Slabs Direct
Apr 4, 2021 · 6 pitches. Lead / Onsight. Gear to a #1, including the 0. Not many nuts, if any. w ARC. Pretty standard Whitehorse spice. Standard top-out dike has well-spaced bolt anchors.
Trad 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3- M3-
 17
Damnation Buttress
Apr 2, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. w. DD. used 50m and worked well. simuled middle of climb. gear only to #1. z4 0 and brown tricam were heroes. 6 draws would probably be enough. understimulating overall. didnt find finger crack. hollow ice next to slab entrance was most mentally spicy of climb
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 71
Henderson Ridge
Mar 21, 2021 · Lead / Redpoint. w. DP (client). good big ledges for instruction @ anchors. all dry + warm. in mtn boots. better to go up than around to trail if snowy --> lee side has snowfields.
Trad 4 pitches
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
 1,444
Freeway
Mar 19, 2021 · Solo. Soloed this various times in 2015, 2016 as well as with Anna in 2018.
Trad 6 pitches
WI3 Steep Snow
 254
Pinnacle Gully
Mar 19, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. w. SF. double 70's would be a welcome margin on this route. Very cold. couldn't find pins on R. L is on wind slab but R is in line of fire (ice). 3rd pitch anchor used #5 BD Nut, .75, and fixed pink tricam. 8 screws on pitch 1, plus 2 for anchor and 1 for ground.
Ice, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
WI2
 69
Lost in the Forest
Mar 18, 2021 · Lead / Redpoint. w. 3 clients. had all to ourselves all day. did all the steepest lines
Ice
WI3-
 121
Upper Hitchcock Gully
Mar 17, 2021 · Lead / Redpoint. Hero Ice. w. DF. Used 5 screws, and right side of pillars. w client do as 2 pitches for visibility.
Trad, Ice
WI3
 149
Left Hand Monkey Wrench
Mar 17, 2021 · Follow. DF's 1st lead. Noticed can easily wrap w. 60m
Ice
WI3-
 121
Upper Hitchcock Gully
Mar 13, 2021 · Lead / Redpoint. Led all as one pitch w. SD. 9 screws. Took steepest, leftmost line to finish. Nice ice, but bad belay stance. More right would have been better.
Trad, Ice
WI2+
 32
Right Hand Squirrel Nuts (aka LH…
Mar 13, 2021 · 1 pitch. Follow. w. SD. Skipped pitch 1 (thin).
Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
 17
The Battle of the Bulge
Mar 13, 2021 · Follow. w. SD. with a 60 need to swing right to snow slope. lead next time
Ice
WI3
 13
Avalon By Bus
Mar 13, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. w. SD. Not really a good rap tree to be found but can walk over to rap tree for battle of the bulge.
Ice
WI2
 69
Lost in the Forest
Mar 6, 2021 · Lead / Redpoint. w. 4 clients. FAT. tricky client positioning being in middle of slab.
Ice
WI4
 91
The Penguin
Mar 5, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. I led 1st pitch. Thin but enjoyable! DD led 2nd (hookfest). If guiding, by-pass the rap tree (terrible stance) and get to ice of 2nd pitch for screw anchor. may need a 70 for this.
Ice 2 pitches
WI3
 66
Waterfall
Mar 5, 2021 · Follow. w. DD. Heinous walk off!! Don't do it, just rap. You probably need doubles.
Ice
WI3-4
 72
Smear
Mar 5, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. Long pitch. about 20ft left in the 70m. Used 10 screws. If guiding, screw anchor after steep stuff, then quick scramble and give quick pro (munter, etc.) for last bit and walk off. doubles to rap.
Trad, Ice
WI2+
 147
The Cleft
Feb 28, 2021 · Solo. w. DF. The chockstone was super low, iced over, and easy.
Ice 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3- M3 Mod. Snow
 127
Hitchcock Gully (Lower)
Feb 28, 2021 · Lead / Redpoint. Did as 2 pitches as we climbed below real slow party. rock section was covered in a thin glaze - made a little spicier than normal. #1 still went in
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow 2 pitches
WI3-4
 67
Shamrock
Feb 22, 2021 · TR. left side.
Ice
WI3-4
 67
Shamrock
Feb 22, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. Led straight up vertical curtain. Drippy hero ice. w BM. 6 Screws. awkward traverse to birch tree anchor.
Ice
WI3-4
 40
Dave's Snotsicle
Feb 21, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. I led 1st pitch (r side) and Doug led 2nd pitch. From big snow ledge it is 60m to the top anchor if you go straight up the L side. Belay in R cave is cramped. could short rope to snow ledge and lead as 1 long pitch.
Ice 2 pitches
WI4
 30
Goldline (aka GoldMine / aka Yuk…
Feb 18, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. Led 1st Pitch, Doug led 2nd. Could not find bolts. Approach is not straightforward at all. Use the GPS coordinate. there is a potential slide path beneath the climb. No rock gear available.
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI4
 13
Ace of Spades
Feb 12, 2021 · Lead. backed off and downclimbed after 2 screws. very delaminated and hollow sounding. top looked fat. approach 50min breaking trail. approach in potential slide path.
Ice
WI3-4
 22
Amphitheater
Feb 12, 2021 · Lead / Redpoint. w BM - bootied some gear. cold.
Ice
WI4+
 56
Chia Direct
Feb 5, 2021 · Follow. Followed DD after leading most of Chia normal
Ice
WI3+
 121
Chia
Feb 5, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. I led most of the pitch, Doug led direct finish from screw anchor. The 'ledges' aren't so spacious.
Ice
WI4+
 104
Hobbit Couloir
Feb 5, 2021 · Follow. Was heavily trafficked. Bulge is physical, stemming OK. snow slope catches lots of slough from Gandalf. w. DD
Ice
WI3+ M3
 128
Pegasus Rock Finish
Feb 5, 2021 · 1 pitch. Lead / Onsight. w. DD. 3 Pitons protect the rock moves. a purple link fits nicely too.
Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
 115
Pegasus
Feb 5, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. Did Rock Finish. Deceptively longer and steeper than it looks. Could TR with a client on the far left side if needed.
Ice
WI2+
 147
The Cleft
Jan 25, 2021 · Solo. w. DD @ night.
Ice 2 pitches
WI3
 149
Left Hand Monkey Wrench
Jan 25, 2021 · Solo. w. DD @ night. Bring swivel tether next time.
Ice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Scratchy Rumney > Buffalo Pit
 52
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Apr 10, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. w client. do as 2nd pitch from 5.1 below. belayed rappel from ledge to base. tricky crux (reach)
Cakewalk WM: N Conway > 02. Humphrey's… > 2. The Cakewalk Area
 55
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Apr 8, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. w DM. used the #4 but could pretty easily skip it. did use from .2 to 2 and a couple tricams (pink, blue) and nuts (10 and 12). anchor on p 3 is pretty far back (dead tree)
Wanderlust WM: N Conway > 02. Humphrey's… > 2. The Cakewalk Area
 95
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Apr 8, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. w DM. used .5, #1, pink and red tricam. 7 draws is enough.
Parasol Gully NH Ice & Mixed > - Northern NH > Dixville Notch
 49
WI2+ Steep Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Apr 6, 2021 · 3 pitches. Lead / Redpoint. w. MB and MH for mentor day. 6 screws is plenty. a .5 and a #1 is playing it safe, too. placed 3 screws on crux pitch.
Little Monalisa WM: Franconia N… > Artist's Bluff
 27
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Apr 5, 2021 · Solo. Left side.
Slabs Direct Whitehorse Ledge > 07. The Slabs
 58
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 4 pitches
Apr 4, 2021 · 6 pitches. Lead / Onsight. Gear to a #1, including the 0. Not many nuts, if any. w ARC. Pretty standard Whitehorse spice. Standard top-out dike has well-spaced bolt anchors.
Damnation Buttress NH Ice & Mixed > Mt Washington > Huntington Ravine - W…
 17
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3- M3- Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Apr 2, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. w. DD. used 50m and worked well. simuled middle of climb. gear only to #1. z4 0 and brown tricam were heroes. 6 draws would probably be enough. understimulating overall. didnt find finger crack. hollow ice next to slab entrance was most mentally spicy of climb
Henderson Ridge WM: Pinkham / P… > 05. Huntington Ravine
 71
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 4 pitches
Mar 21, 2021 · Lead / Redpoint. w. DP (client). good big ledges for instruction @ anchors. all dry + warm. in mtn boots. better to go up than around to trail if snowy --> lee side has snowfields.
Freeway Boulder > … > North > Second Flatiron
 1,444
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c Trad 6 pitches
Mar 19, 2021 · Solo. Soloed this various times in 2015, 2016 as well as with Anna in 2018.
Pinnacle Gully NH Ice & Mixed > Mt Washington > Huntington Ravine - W…
 254
WI3 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
Mar 19, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. w. SF. double 70's would be a welcome margin on this route. Very cold. couldn't find pins on R. L is on wind slab but R is in line of fire (ice). 3rd pitch anchor used #5 BD Nut, .75, and fixed pink tricam. 8 screws on pitch 1, plus 2 for anchor and 1 for ground.
Lost in the Forest NH Ice & Mixed > Frankenstein Ice > 5. Lost In the Forest…
 69
WI2 Ice
Mar 18, 2021 · Lead / Redpoint. w. 3 clients. had all to ourselves all day. did all the steepest lines
Upper Hitchcock Gully NH Ice & Mixed > … > 6. Mt Willard… > 05. E Face - Upper
 121
WI3- Trad, Ice
Mar 17, 2021 · Lead / Redpoint. Hero Ice. w. DF. Used 5 screws, and right side of pillars. w client do as 2 pitches for visibility.
Left Hand Monkey Wrench NH Ice & Mixed > … > 6. Mt Willard… > 04. E Face - Lower
 149
WI3 Ice
Mar 17, 2021 · Follow. DF's 1st lead. Noticed can easily wrap w. 60m
Upper Hitchcock Gully NH Ice & Mixed > … > 6. Mt Willard… > 05. E Face - Upper
 121
WI3- Trad, Ice
Mar 13, 2021 · Lead / Redpoint. Led all as one pitch w. SD. 9 screws. Took steepest, leftmost line to finish. Nice ice, but bad belay stance. More right would have been better.
Right Hand Squirrel Nuts (a… NH Ice & Mixed > … > 6. Mt Willard… > 04. E Face - Lower
 32
WI2+ Ice 2 pitches
Mar 13, 2021 · 1 pitch. Follow. w. SD. Skipped pitch 1 (thin).
The Battle of the Bulge NH Ice & Mixed > … > 8. Mt Avalon > Main Area
 17
WI3-4 Ice
Mar 13, 2021 · Follow. w. SD. with a 60 need to swing right to snow slope. lead next time
Avalon By Bus NH Ice & Mixed > … > 8. Mt Avalon > Yellow Wall
 13
WI3 Ice
Mar 13, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. w. SD. Not really a good rap tree to be found but can walk over to rap tree for battle of the bulge.
Lost in the Forest NH Ice & Mixed > Frankenstein Ice > 5. Lost In the Forest…
 69
WI2 Ice
Mar 6, 2021 · Lead / Redpoint. w. 4 clients. FAT. tricky client positioning being in middle of slab.
The Penguin NH Ice & Mixed > Frankenstein Ice > 6. Standard Route Area
 91
WI4 Ice 2 pitches
Mar 5, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. I led 1st pitch. Thin but enjoyable! DD led 2nd (hookfest). If guiding, by-pass the rap tree (terrible stance) and get to ice of 2nd pitch for screw anchor. may need a 70 for this.
Waterfall NH Ice & Mixed > Frankenstein Ice > 6. Standard Route Area
 66
WI3 Ice
Mar 5, 2021 · Follow. w. DD. Heinous walk off!! Don't do it, just rap. You probably need doubles.
Smear NH Ice & Mixed > Frankenstein Ice > 3. Amphitheater Area
 72
WI3-4 Trad, Ice
Mar 5, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. Long pitch. about 20ft left in the 70m. Used 10 screws. If guiding, screw anchor after steep stuff, then quick scramble and give quick pro (munter, etc.) for last bit and walk off. doubles to rap.
The Cleft NH Ice & Mixed > … > 6. Mt Willard… > 05. E Face - Upper
 147
WI2+ Ice 2 pitches
Feb 28, 2021 · Solo. w. DF. The chockstone was super low, iced over, and easy.
Hitchcock Gully (Lower) NH Ice & Mixed > … > 6. Mt Willard… > 04. E Face - Lower
 127
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3- M3 Mod. Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow 2 pitches
Feb 28, 2021 · Lead / Redpoint. Did as 2 pitches as we climbed below real slow party. rock section was covered in a thin glaze - made a little spicier than normal. #1 still went in
Shamrock NH Ice & Mixed > - Kinsman Notch > - Kinsman Notch Ice (…
 67
WI3-4 Ice
Feb 22, 2021 · TR. left side.
Shamrock NH Ice & Mixed > - Kinsman Notch > - Kinsman Notch Ice (…
 67
WI3-4 Ice
Feb 22, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. Led straight up vertical curtain. Drippy hero ice. w BM. 6 Screws. awkward traverse to birch tree anchor.
Dave's Snotsicle VT Ice & Mixed > Smugglers Notch… > 13E - The S Wall Area
 40
WI3-4 Ice 2 pitches
Feb 21, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. I led 1st pitch (r side) and Doug led 2nd pitch. From big snow ledge it is 60m to the top anchor if you go straight up the L side. Belay in R cave is cramped. could short rope to snow ledge and lead as 1 long pitch.
Goldline (aka GoldMine / ak… NH Ice & Mixed > … > N Bald Cap ICE > 3. Yukon Gold Buttress
 30
WI4 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Feb 18, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. Led 1st Pitch, Doug led 2nd. Could not find bolts. Approach is not straightforward at all. Use the GPS coordinate. there is a potential slide path beneath the climb. No rock gear available.
Ace of Spades NH Ice & Mixed > - Franconia Notch > Ace of Spades Crag
 13
WI4 Ice
Feb 12, 2021 · Lead. backed off and downclimbed after 2 screws. very delaminated and hollow sounding. top looked fat. approach 50min breaking trail. approach in potential slide path.
Amphitheater NH Ice & Mixed > - Franconia Notch > Echo Crag Ice Climbs
 22
WI3-4 Ice
Feb 12, 2021 · Lead / Redpoint. w BM - bootied some gear. cold.
Chia Direct NH Ice & Mixed > Frankenstein Ice > 3. Amphitheater Area
 56
WI4+ Ice
Feb 5, 2021 · Follow. Followed DD after leading most of Chia normal
Chia NH Ice & Mixed > Frankenstein Ice > 3. Amphitheater Area
 121
WI3+ Ice
Feb 5, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. I led most of the pitch, Doug led direct finish from screw anchor. The 'ledges' aren't so spacious.
Hobbit Couloir NH Ice & Mixed > Frankenstein Ice > 3. Amphitheater Area
 104
WI4+ Ice
Feb 5, 2021 · Follow. Was heavily trafficked. Bulge is physical, stemming OK. snow slope catches lots of slough from Gandalf. w. DD
Pegasus Rock Finish NH Ice & Mixed > Frankenstein Ice > 3. Amphitheater Area
 128
WI3+ M3 Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
Feb 5, 2021 · 1 pitch. Lead / Onsight. w. DD. 3 Pitons protect the rock moves. a purple link fits nicely too.
Pegasus NH Ice & Mixed > Frankenstein Ice > 3. Amphitheater Area
 115
WI3-4 Ice
Feb 5, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. Did Rock Finish. Deceptively longer and steeper than it looks. Could TR with a client on the far left side if needed.
The Cleft NH Ice & Mixed > … > 6. Mt Willard… > 05. E Face - Upper
 147
WI2+ Ice 2 pitches
Jan 25, 2021 · Solo. w. DD @ night.
Left Hand Monkey Wrench NH Ice & Mixed > … > 6. Mt Willard… > 04. E Face - Lower
 149
WI3 Ice
Jan 25, 2021 · Solo. w. DD @ night. Bring swivel tether next time.
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