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Routes in East Face - Lower

Hitchcock Gully 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-
LHMW Bypass WI2+
Left Hand Monkey Wrench WI3
Willard Slab Right WI2
Elevation: 2,228 ft
GPS: 44.206, -71.408 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 5,671 total, 163/month
Shared By: Kurtz on Jan 31, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

Description

Honestly, the lower routes on the East Face of Mt. Willard aren't the best but you need to get above them to access much better climbing on the upper tier.

Lower Hitchcock Gully is often a mixed climb so Left Hand Monkey Wrench sees most of the traffic and there is often a wait. If you continue traversing right past LHMW about 75 ft, you'll reach a big flow of low-angle ice/snow that will get you to the upper tier in 2 pitches of climbing and 1 pitch of steep trail. You'll end up right at the start of The Cleft.

Getting There

From the parking lot at the top of the Notch, walk south on the RR tracks about 500 yards. Stop at a small white cross memorial for "Richard Graves" on the right side of the tracks. (May be covered in deep snow.) Put on your crampons and hike/climb this steep trail which leads (bear left at the top) to Lower Hitchcock Gully. For Left Hand Monkey Wrench, take a traversing trail on the right about 35 yds before reaching LHG.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at East Face - Lower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3
Left Hand Monkey Wrench
Ice
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-
Hitchcock Gully
Ice 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Left Hand Monkey Wrench WI3 Ice
Hitchcock Gully 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3- Ice 2 pitches
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