Elevation: 2,200 ft
GPS: 44.55499, -72.79617
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Shared By: bradley white on Dec 27, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore
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Description

Smuggler's Notch has some of the best ice climbing and definitively the best mixed climbing in the Green Mountain State. Often referred to as "Smuggs" or "The Notch" by locals, it is comprised of climbing along the closed portion of Route 108 between Jeffersonville in the north and Stowe in the south, Smuggler's Notch is a gem of New England Climbing.

The approach times very greatly by snow conditions. Getting to Easy Gully from the Stone Hut, for example, can take 35 minutes or well over an hour depending on how much snow has come in and if the trail has been beaten in. Expect this for most climbs.

Areas/climbs listed are from North to South and the 'W' or 'E' denotes whether a climb is on the west or east side of the road.

Getting There

Ice climbing in The Notch can be approached by either the Stowe or Jeffersonville side. Generally, Jeffersonville is used to approach most climbing but use the next section as your guide.

Rt. 108 through the notch is closed from virtually the first snowfall of the season and usually stays closed until spring long after the ice is gone. As long as there is snowpack it's recommended to bring some kind of skis for the approach as the road is skiable throughout 90% of the ice season save for the first few weeks.

The lots on both sides of the road closure are almost always open on weekdays and usually fill up on weekends. If climbing on a weekend, plan to be there early, the Jeffersonville side has more spots but is also more popular.

Areas

Areas from Jeffersonville (from Stowe), distances on the road from the parking/gate.
* 0.9 (2.1), east side, The Workout Wall
* 1.0 (2.0), west side, Jefferson Slide, Notch North
* 1.2 (1.8), west side, ENT Gully
* 1.2 (1.8), west side, Quartz Crack Face Area
* 1.2 (1.8), west side, Easy Gully Area
1.2 (1.8), Stone Hut
1.3 (1.7), High Point in Road
* 1.3 (1.7), east side, The Playground
* 1.35 (1.65), west side, Hidden Gully
* 1.4 (1.6), east side, Elephant's Head Area, Ragna Rock Area
* 1.45 (1.35), west side, Blind Fate Area
* 1.5 (1.5), west side, Terror-Tory
* 1.9 (1.1), east side, Blue Room, South Wall
* 2.0 (1.0), east side, Upper South Wall, Bastard
* 2.1 (0.9), west side, Driving Force Area
* , east side, Spruce Peak Crags

GPS MAP WITH AREAS LABELED courtesy of Max Forbes:

http://caltopo.com/m/RH9Q

70 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Smugglers Notch Ice Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Smugglers Notch Ice

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3 M1-2 Mod. Snow PG13
 32
Jefferson Slide
TR, Mixed, Ice, Snow 2 pitches
WI4-5 M4
 28
Ragnarock
Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI4
 14
Blind Fate
Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
 30
Hidden Gully
Ice 3 pitches
WI4
 28
Blue Room
Ice
WI3
 40
Elephant's head gully
Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
 26
Dave's Snotsicle
Ice 2 pitches
WI2+ M1
 22
ENT Gully
Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
WI4 M4
 8
Poster Child
Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
WI4+
 9
Grand Illusion
Ice
WI4-
 9
Blue Ice Bulge
Ice
WI4+
 8
Dougs Route
Ice 2 pitches
WI4-5
 5
Origins of Intelligence in Children
Ice
WI4 M4
 3
Norton-Gibney
Trad, Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
WI6- M6-7
 3
I Have a Dream (or was it a Nigh…
Trad, Mixed, Ice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jefferson Slide 02W - Jeff Slide Area…
 32
WI3 M1-2 Mod. Snow PG13 TR, Mixed, Ice, Snow 2 pitches
Ragnarock 08E - Elephant's Head…
 28
WI4-5 M4 Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Blind Fate 10W - The Blind Fate…
 14
WI4 Ice 2 pitches
Hidden Gully 10W - The Blind Fate…
 30
WI3-4 Ice 3 pitches
Blue Room 13E - The S Wall Area
 28
WI4 Ice
Elephant's head gully 08E - Elephant's Head…
 40
WI3 Ice 2 pitches
Dave's Snotsicle 13E - The S Wall Area
 26
WI3-4 Ice 2 pitches
ENT Gully 03W - ENT Gully Area
 22
WI2+ M1 Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
Poster Child 05W - Easy Gully Area
 8
WI4 M4 Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
Grand Illusion 05W - Easy Gully Area
 9
WI4+ Ice
Blue Ice Bulge 10W - The Blind Fate…
 9
WI4- Ice
Dougs Route 13E - The S Wall Area
 8
WI4+ Ice 2 pitches
Origins of Intelligence in… 08E - Elephant's Head…
 5
WI4-5 Ice
Norton-Gibney 10W - The Blind Fate…
 3
WI4 M4 Trad, Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
I Have a Dream (or was it a… 08E - Elephant's Head…
 3
WI6- M6-7 Trad, Mixed, Ice
More Classic Climbs in Smugglers Notch Ice »

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