Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 2,200 ft
GPS: 44.55499, -72.79617
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 170,384 total · 978/month
Shared By: bradley white on Dec 27, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kristen Fiore
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Smuggler's Notch has some of the best ice climbing and definitively the best mixed climbing in the Green Mountain State. Often referred to as "Smuggs" or "The Notch" by locals, it is comprised of climbing along the closed portion of Route 108 between Jeffersonville in the north and Stowe in the south, Smuggler's Notch is a gem of New England Climbing.

The approach times very greatly by snow conditions. Getting to Easy Gully from the Stone Hut, for example, can take 35 minutes or well over an hour depending on how much snow has come in and if the trail has been beaten in. Expect this for most climbs.

Areas/climbs listed are from North to South and the 'W' or 'E' denotes whether a climb is on the west or east side of the road.

Getting There Suggest change

Ice climbing in The Notch can be approached by either the Stowe or Jeffersonville side. Generally, Jeffersonville is used to approach most climbing but use the next section as your guide.

Rt. 108 through the notch is closed from virtually the first snowfall of the season and usually stays closed until spring long after the ice is gone. As long as there is snowpack it's recommended to bring some kind of skis for the approach as the road is skiable throughout 90% of the ice season save for the first few weeks.

The lot at Smugglers notch side of the road is almost always free on weekdays and usually fills up on weekends. If climbing on a weekend, plan to be there early, the Jeffersonville/Smuggler resort side has more spots but is also more popular.

On the Stowe Resort side of the notch:
The Barnes camp parking is posted for only two hours.
Park at the resort if you don't want to get ticketed. On Friday, weekends and holidays, the resort charges for parking unless you’re 4+ per vehicle.
There is free parking at the cross country and toll house further down the road and a free shuttle bus.

Areas

Suggest change
Areas from Jeffersonville (from Stowe), distances on the road from the parking/gate.
* 0.9 (2.1), east side, The Workout Wall
* 1.0 (2.0), west side, Jefferson Slide, Notch North
* 1.2 (1.8), west side, ENT Gully
* 1.2 (1.8), west side, Quartz Crack Face Area
* 1.2 (1.8), west side, Easy Gully Area
1.2 (1.8), Stone Hut
1.3 (1.7), High Point in Road
* 1.3 (1.7), east side, The Playground
* 1.35 (1.65), west side, Hidden Gully
* 1.4 (1.6), east side, Elephant's Head Area, Ragna Rock Area
* 1.45 (1.35), west side, Blind Fate Area
* 1.5 (1.5), west side, Terror-Tory
* 1.9 (1.1), east side, Blue Room, South Wall
* 2.0 (1.0), east side, Upper South Wall, Bastard
* 2.1 (0.9), west side, Driving Force Area
* , east side, Spruce Peak Crags

GPS MAP WITH AREAS LABELED courtesy of Max Forbes:

http://caltopo.com/m/RH9Q

70 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Smugglers Notch Ice Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Smugglers Notch Ice

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3 M1 Mod. Snow PG13
 41
Jefferson Slide
TR, Mixed, Ice, Snow 2 pitches
WI4-5 M4
 30
Ragnarock
Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI4
 18
Blind Fate
Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
 38
Hidden Gully
Ice 3 pitches
WI3+
 25
Grand Confusion
Ice
WI4
 31
Blue Room
Ice
WI3
 43
Elephant's head gully
Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
 28
Dave's Snotsicle
Ice 2 pitches
WI2+ M1-2
 27
ENT Gully
Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
WI4 M4
 10
Poster Child
Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
WI4+
 12
Grand Illusion
Ice
WI4-
 12
Blue Ice Bulge
Ice
WI4+
 9
Dougs Route
Ice 2 pitches
WI4-5
 5
Origins of Intelligence in Children
Ice
WI4 M4
 4
Norton-Gibney
Trad, Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jefferson Slide 02W - Jeff Slide Area…
 41
WI3 M1 Mod. Snow PG13 TR, Mixed, Ice, Snow 2 pitches
Ragnarock 08E - Elephant's Head…
 30
WI4-5 M4 Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Blind Fate 10W - The Blind Fate…
 18
WI4 Ice 2 pitches
Hidden Gully 10W - The Blind Fate…
 38
WI3-4 Ice 3 pitches
Grand Confusion 05W - Easy Gully Area
 25
WI3+ Ice
Blue Room 13E - The S Wall Area
 31
WI4 Ice
Elephant's head gully 08E - Elephant's Head…
 43
WI3 Ice 2 pitches
Dave's Snotsicle 13E - The S Wall Area
 28
WI3-4 Ice 2 pitches
ENT Gully 03W - ENT Gully Area
 27
WI2+ M1-2 Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
Poster Child 05W - Easy Gully Area
 10
WI4 M4 Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
Grand Illusion 05W - Easy Gully Area
 12
WI4+ Ice
Blue Ice Bulge 10W - The Blind Fate…
 12
WI4- Ice
Dougs Route 13E - The S Wall Area
 9
WI4+ Ice 2 pitches
Origins of Intelligence in… 08E - Elephant's Head…
 5
WI4-5 Ice
Norton-Gibney 10W - The Blind Fate…
 4
WI4 M4 Trad, Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Smugglers Notch Ice »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading