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Routes in Artist's Bluff

Artist's Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brass Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gawking Peepers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Handy Cap Direct T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Monalisa T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Right Side Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Special Olympics T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Standard Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Standard Route 5.10 variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Standard route 5.7 variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vincent's Ear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:

Description

Artist's bluff is a beautiful place to spend a day, the view is spectacular... This is likely where it got its name, its seems like a perfect place to set up and paint a landscape... Its best attribute is some very enjoyable moderate routes and an easy approach and decent...

There are some harder routes in the 5.10 range and even one 5.12 sport route, but the bluff is more well known for its comfortable moderate routes such as the creatively named "standard route" which holds many variations...

The rock is of typical Franconia quality (the more solid variety) nice textured granite... Good solid gear for the most part and some really nice belay ledges...
A perfect place to get on your first trad lead or to bring a friend for a mellow intro to multi-pitch trad climbing...

Getting There

Take route 93 to exit 34c... This is the same exit as for cannon mt. ski area and Echo Crag... At the stop sign go left, this takes you over the highway. Look for a dirt pull out on the right after the bridge; the trail starts here but please park at Echo Lake Beach parking lot 100 yards ahead. Do not park at trail head (no parking signs). Keep right at the first fork in the trail. It's only a few minutes to get to the cliff base which will be on your right as you hike up... A trail leads along the base of the cliff from left to right...

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Artist's Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
chris21  
There was a big rockfall at some point this spring between standard route and brass balls. May 5, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
looks good mark... thanks Jan 13, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Thanks. I shifted them a little to get on the crag. Lee, did I sort the routes correctly? I wasn't quite sure on a couple of them. Jan 13, 2013
Kai Troester
Pepperell, MA
Kai Troester   Pepperell, MA
The GPS coordinates are: 44.180681,-71.695365

If that is added to the area it will show up on the map.

maps.google.com/maps?q=44.1… Aug 31, 2011
liam  
FYI: Might be best to drive another 100 yards and pay to park at Echo Lake. We got a $20 ticket for parking in the dirt pull out right by the trail. Aug 17, 2011

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