Elevation: 2,072 ft
GPS: 44.18, -71.695 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 19,739 total · 137/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 19, 2007 with improvements by Notch Johnson and 1 other
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
Tonight
58°F 14°C
Fri
83°F - 66°F 28°C - 19°C
Sat
89°F - 67°F 32°C - 19°C
Sun
81°F - 62°F 27°C - 17°C
Mon
72°F - 55°F 22°C - 13°C
Tue
70°F - 54°F 21°C - 12°C
Wed
72°F - 57°F 22°C - 14°C

Description

Artist's bluff is a beautiful place to spend a day, the view is spectacular... This is likely where it got its name, its seems like a perfect place to set up and paint a landscape... Its best attribute is some very enjoyable moderate routes and an easy approach and decent...

There are some harder routes in the 5.10 range and even one 5.12 sport route, but the bluff is more well known for its comfortable moderate routes such as the creatively named "standard route" which holds many variations...

The rock is of typical Franconia quality (the more solid variety) nice textured granite... Good solid gear for the most part and some really nice belay ledges...
A perfect place to get on your first trad lead or to bring a friend for a mellow intro to multi-pitch trad climbing...

Getting There

Take route 93 to exit 34c... This is the same exit as for cannon mt. ski area and Echo Crag... At the stop sign go left, this takes you over the highway. Look for a dirt pull out on the right after the bridge; the trail starts here but please park at Echo Lake Beach parking lot 100 yards ahead. Do not park at trail head (no parking signs). Keep right at the first fork in the trail. It's only a few minutes to get to the cliff base which will be on your right as you hike up... A trail leads along the base of the cliff from left to right...

12 Total Climbs

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Location: Artist's Bluff Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Artist's Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 56
Standard Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 33
Right Side Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Brass Balls
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Special Olympics
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Handy Cap Direct
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Standard Route
 56
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Right Side Route
 33
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Brass Balls
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Special Olympics
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Handy Cap Direct
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in Artist's Bluff »

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