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Artist's Bluff Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Artist's Bluff

L › R R › L A › Z

	Artist's Arete (mid-cliff Start) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Brass Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gawking Peepers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Handy Cap Direct T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Little Monalisa T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Right Side Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Special Olympics T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Standard Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Standard Route 5.10 variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Standard route 5.7 variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Vincent's Ear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Elevation:	2,072 ft	632 m
GPS:	44.1803, -71.6952 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	36,896 total · 178/month
Shared By:	Lee Hansche on Sep 19, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Artist's bluff is a beautiful place to spend a day, the view is spectacular... This is likely where it got its name, its seems like a perfect place to set up and paint a landscape... Its best attribute is some very enjoyable moderate routes and an easy approach and decent...

There are some harder routes in the 5.10 range and even one 5.12 sport route, but the bluff is more well known for its comfortable moderate routes such as the creatively named "standard route" which holds many variations...

The rock is of typical Franconia quality (the more solid variety) nice textured granite... Good solid gear for the most part and some really nice belay ledges...
A perfect place to get on your first trad lead or to bring a friend for a mellow intro to multi-pitch trad climbing...

Getting There

Take route 93 to exit 34c... This is the same exit as for cannon mt. ski area and Echo Crag... At the stop sign go left, this takes you over the highway. Look for a dirt pull out on the right after the bridge; the trail starts here but do not park at trail head (no parking signs). You can park down the road in a dirt lot past the Echo Lake lot or park by echo crag and walk across the bridge to Artist’s Bluff. Keep right at the first fork in the trail. It's only a few minutes to get to the cliff base which will be on your right as you hike up... A trail leads along the base of the cliff from left to right...

12 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location:	Artist's Bluff Change
Type:	to Trad Sport Toprope
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Classic Climbing Routes at Artist's Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 118 ● Standard Route Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 56 ● Right Side Route Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 33 ● Artist's Arete (mid-cliff Start) Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 16 ● Brass Balls Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 6 ● Special Olympics Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 5 ● Handy Cap Direct Trad, Sport