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Routes in Artist's Bluff

Artist's Arete (mid-cliff Start) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brass Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gawking Peepers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Handy Cap Direct T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Monalisa T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Right Side Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Special Olympics T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Standard Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Standard Route 5.10 variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Standard route 5.7 variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vincent's Ear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Elevation: 2,072 ft
GPS: 44.18, -71.695 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 17,399 total · 129/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 19, 2007 with updates from Notch Johnson and 1 other
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Artist's bluff is a beautiful place to spend a day, the view is spectacular... This is likely where it got its name, its seems like a perfect place to set up and paint a landscape... Its best attribute is some very enjoyable moderate routes and an easy approach and decent...

There are some harder routes in the 5.10 range and even one 5.12 sport route, but the bluff is more well known for its comfortable moderate routes such as the creatively named "standard route" which holds many variations...

The rock is of typical Franconia quality (the more solid variety) nice textured granite... Good solid gear for the most part and some really nice belay ledges...
A perfect place to get on your first trad lead or to bring a friend for a mellow intro to multi-pitch trad climbing...

Getting There

Take route 93 to exit 34c... This is the same exit as for cannon mt. ski area and Echo Crag... At the stop sign go left, this takes you over the highway. Look for a dirt pull out on the right after the bridge; the trail starts here but please park at Echo Lake Beach parking lot 100 yards ahead. Do not park at trail head (no parking signs). Keep right at the first fork in the trail. It's only a few minutes to get to the cliff base which will be on your right as you hike up... A trail leads along the base of the cliff from left to right...

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Artist's Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Standard Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Right Side Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brass Balls
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Special Olympics
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Handy Cap Direct
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Standard Route
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Right Side Route
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Brass Balls
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Special Olympics
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Handy Cap Direct
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in Artist's Bluff »

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Prime Climbing Season
FYI: Might be best to drive another 100 yards and pay to park at Echo Lake. We got a $20 ticket for parking in the dirt pull out right by the trail. Aug 17, 2011
There was a big rockfall at some point this spring between standard route and brass balls. May 5, 2017
A very easy place to get to ... the highway takes you right there, exit is right there, parking area is right across the road, short trail with an, easy to see cliff on the right side. Echo crag is just across the highway for more close, easy to get to climbs.
Many (most or all ?) of the tougher short bolted routes on the right side of the cliff are now "mossed over". May 31, 2018

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