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Routes in Artist's Bluff

Artist's Arete (mid-cliff Start) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brass Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gawking Peepers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Handy Cap Direct T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Monalisa T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Right Side Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Special Olympics T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Standard Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Standard Route 5.10 variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Standard route 5.7 variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vincent's Ear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 538 total · 4/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 19, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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I think this route should have it's own name cause its so much harder and a bit more serious than Standard's other options... I called it PG13 cause i thought it was a bit sketchy climbing over my pro above a big ledge (in my mind it was more "R") the guide i have makes no mention of sketchy climbing so perhaps i missed a protection option (but i don't think so)... With a good belayer you should be fine...

Pitch 1: Climb the original start to Standard Route to the nice big belay ledge... Belay from pins...

Pitch 2: Step left from the anchor to a "Finger Crack" which isn't exactly splitter its more like a few pods leading to face climbing... Place the highest piece you can in the "Crack" and climb some face moves above getting a bit away from your last piece before getting a good stance and more moderate climbing to a belay in a nook above...

Pitch 3: Easy climbing to the top of the cliff...


Just left of the anchor at the first belay on Standard Route...


TCUs helpful on the crux... Regular rack otherwise...


bradley white   Bend
You didn't miss any protection placements that I am aware of on this variation. We once upon a time, rated it the (5-9) boulder problem way to do the second pitch and it had no protection. Jul 30, 2009

More About Standard Route 5.10 variation