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Routes in Artist's Bluff

Artist's Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brass Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gawking Peepers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Handy Cap Direct T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Monalisa T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Right Side Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Special Olympics T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Standard Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Standard Route 5.10 variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Standard route 5.7 variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vincent's Ear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 515 total · 4/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 19, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

I think this route should have it's own name cause its so much harder and a bit more serious than Standard's other options... I called it PG13 cause i thought it was a bit sketchy climbing over my pro above a big ledge (in my mind it was more "R") the guide i have makes no mention of sketchy climbing so perhaps i missed a protection option (but i don't think so)... With a good belayer you should be fine...

Pitch 1: Climb the original start to Standard Route to the nice big belay ledge... Belay from pins...

Pitch 2: Step left from the anchor to a "Finger Crack" which isn't exactly splitter its more like a few pods leading to face climbing... Place the highest piece you can in the "Crack" and climb some face moves above getting a bit away from your last piece before getting a good stance and more moderate climbing to a belay in a nook above...

Pitch 3: Easy climbing to the top of the cliff...

Location [Suggest Change]

Just left of the anchor at the first belay on Standard Route...

Protection [Suggest Change]

TCUs helpful on the crux... Regular rack otherwise...

Photos

bradley white   Bend
You didn't miss any protection placements that I am aware of on this variation. We once upon a time, rated it the (5-9) boulder problem way to do the second pitch and it had no protection. Jul 30, 2009

More About Standard Route 5.10 variation

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