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Routes in Artist's Bluff

Artist's Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brass Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gawking Peepers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Handy Cap Direct T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Monalisa T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Right Side Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Special Olympics T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Standard Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Standard Route 5.10 variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Standard route 5.7 variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vincent's Ear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: John Mallery and Chris Rowens 1989
Page Views: 1,243 total, 11/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 16, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A cool sport route that is a bit out of place (but welcome) at this mostly moderate trad crag... Definitely worth doing...

Stick clip the first bolt... The real crux is the first 10 feet of climbing which is powerful and technical on a series of undercling crimps... The first boulder problem ends at a jug by the 2nd bolt another move or 2 gains you a rest where you can wedge yourself in the corner to catch your breath... Gastone and sidepull your way up to another good hold, set up, and make a big move to a good hold at the top of the corner... Exiting the corner is awkward as you shift from steep corner climbing to a few slaby moves... Here you might want to place a nut or two before heading up at about 5.8 and scramble up the the 2 bolt anchor...

Location

To the right of Brass Balls(5.8) and left of Special Olympics(5.10c) look for a bolt line going up a steep wall and in to a corner...

Protection

3 bolts protect the hardest moves but a couple small nuts above would keep the top section from becoming R rated...

An anchor about halfway up the cliff marks the end of the route but due to a lack of rap rings you will have to continue to the top of the cliff on moderate rock...

Photos

Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.12a PG13
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.12a PG13
Awesome route, but I wouldn't call it a sport route in it's current state. I think you might hit the ground if you fell off the Crux before clipping the second bolt. You wouldn't want to go whipping all over this thing the with the condition of the bolts, and the small cam I placed before the nut was tenuous at best.

What's the consensus on updating the hardware and possibly re-configuring the bolts? It's a super fun climb, but didn't feel very sporty. I do see the merit in leaving it as is. Sep 25, 2017
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Yeah I think the bolts on this route were updated and new ones drill 8 feet to the left through the steep overhang. Jun 26, 2014
Hey Matt, I saw those. Is this a new line? It looked to me as if the bolts on this route were replaced with shiny new stainless models..? Jun 25, 2014
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
There is a new line of bolts just to the left of this climb. Does anybody have info about what it is? Jun 25, 2014
DCSwish23
Maine/Spain
 
DCSwish23   Maine/Spain
 
There's a sling on one bolt and it has a sling going to the other bolt. Not really the ideal situation. Some bolts at the top of the actual route part would be great to skip the easy top. Beware of getting the rope snagged in some cracks at the roof.

Overall really fun climb. Jun 12, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
There is currently a sling on the anchors. If I get to it I may leave a biner or two to help with the rappel situation. Oct 3, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.12a
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.12a
Fun and powerful. Oct 28, 2009