Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,342 total · 32/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 19, 2007 with updates from BPC
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


53 Opinions

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Description

A great moderate climb with nice ledges and fun moves on good rock... What more do you want? A killer view? Its got that too... I've done it in one, two, or three pitches depending on the needs of the party... A really good choice for a fist trad lead...

Pitch 1: Start up the first pretty face on the left to a moderate right facing corner... And a large comfy belay ledge... Belay from pins and gear in a vertical crack...

Pitch 2: Traverse right about 10 Ft. and climb a juggy line heading up and slightly right to gain lower angle easier rock following a cracked corner to the top... Belay from gear or sling the large boulder...

Take in the view and have fun...

Location

The first route you get to at the base of the cliff... Start up the face on the left to a moderate right facing corner...

At the summit find a nice trail that will lead you back to the base of the cliff...

Protection

Normal rack...belay on gear
bradley white   Bend
The standard way up this cliff used to go up the left facing corner opposite to Standard Route's 1st pitch variation. There were two large blocks at the top of this corner that fell out in the winter of (1988-89). This changed the climb from being climbed often to what to climb? After the corner the climb went up the bush ramp right to move back left onto rock to a belay in an alcove. The the climb went out directly right up from alcove to the top. This was an oldest climb on the cliff. Jul 30, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.5
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.5
This route is loads of fun! The first short pitch is fun and can be a little spicy because of a lack of protection for about 20 feet in the middle of the pitch. The first pitch could certainly be PG13 if you fall before you get protection in the wide horizontal just before the belay ledge.

With that being said DO THIS ROUTE. It is fun and a great introduction to multi-pitch. It could be stretched into one pitch but the rope drag would be terrible so I think its best to do it in two pitches.

Beautiful views almost right of the ground, the view from the first belay ledge 50 ft off the ground is so beautiful for only climbing 50 ft. DO THIS ROUTE. Jul 9, 2010
Chris Lumens
Merrimack, NH
 
Chris Lumens   Merrimack, NH
 
Any good ideas on placing gear before the big horizontal crack? I was able to get a #7 nut in a little diagonal crack where there's a very small shrub (near dude's head in mountainproject.com/v/10691… ), but it was pretty crappy. Jul 22, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.5
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.5
Chris, there is nothing awe inspiring in that section, a few options for small nuts and small cams but the best protection for that part is to keep a cool head and punch it for the horizontal. I do remember however, getting a piece out left a foot or two before the horizontal that would have held. Jul 22, 2013
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Nice pitch at the grade in a great location. Unless you are a new trad leader and afraid to extend your pieces, or are teaching multipitch, I don't see any reason why you wouldn't just do this in one pitch. The first pitch is short and basically straight up, and won't add anything to the rope drag equation if you use alpine draws. Aug 22, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.5
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.5
Wonderful "juggy" Pitch 2. Jul 9, 2018