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Standard Route

5.5, Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.5 from 56 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > WM: Franconia N… > Artist's Bluff

Description

A great moderate climb with nice ledges and fun moves on good rock... What more do you want? A killer view? Its got that too... I've done it in one, two, or three pitches depending on the needs of the party... A really good choice for a fist trad lead...

Pitch 1: Start up the first pretty face on the left to a moderate right facing corner... And a large comfy belay ledge... Belay from pins and gear in a vertical crack...

Pitch 2: Traverse right about 10 Ft. and climb a juggy line heading up and slightly right to gain lower angle easier rock following a cracked corner to the top... Belay from gear or sling the large boulder...

Take in the view and have fun...

Location

The first route you get to at the base of the cliff... Start up the face on the left to a moderate right facing corner...

At the summit find a nice trail that will lead you back to the base of the cliff...

Protection

Normal rack...belay on gear

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Top-Out View
[Hide Photo] The Top-Out View
Standard Route Pitch 1 and first half of Pitch 2
[Hide Photo] Standard Route Pitch 1 and first half of Pitch 2
Standard Route second half of pitch 2
[Hide Photo] Standard Route second half of pitch 2
A climber starts up the Standard Route
[Hide Photo] A climber starts up the Standard Route
Looking down from mid-way through pitch 2
[Hide Photo] Looking down from mid-way through pitch 2
nicole on standard rt...
[Hide Photo] nicole on standard rt...
Pins at belay ledge
[Hide Photo] Pins at belay ledge
looking down from the top of the 1st pitch in alpine conditions haha
[Hide Photo] looking down from the top of the 1st pitch in alpine conditions haha
a perfect day to climb rocks :)
[Hide Photo] a perfect day to climb rocks :)
Starting up P1. It ends on the ledge above.
[Hide Photo] Starting up P1. It ends on the ledge above.
Pointing out the route...
[Hide Photo] Pointing out the route...
Pitch 1 of standard route...
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1 of standard route...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The standard way up this cliff used to go up the left facing corner opposite to Standard Route's 1st pitch variation. There were two large blocks at the top of this corner that fell out in the winter of (1988-89). This changed the climb from being climbed often to what to climb? After the corner the climb went up the bush ramp right to move back left onto rock to a belay in an alcove. The the climb went out directly right up from alcove to the top. This was an oldest climb on the cliff. Jul 30, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.5
[Hide Comment] This route is loads of fun! The first short pitch is fun and can be a little spicy because of a lack of protection for about 20 feet in the middle of the pitch. The first pitch could certainly be PG13 if you fall before you get protection in the wide horizontal just before the belay ledge.

With that being said DO THIS ROUTE. It is fun and a great introduction to multi-pitch. It could be stretched into one pitch but the rope drag would be terrible so I think its best to do it in two pitches.

Beautiful views almost right of the ground, the view from the first belay ledge 50 ft off the ground is so beautiful for only climbing 50 ft. DO THIS ROUTE. Jul 9, 2010
Chris Lumens
Merrimack, NH
 
[Hide Comment] Any good ideas on placing gear before the big horizontal crack? I was able to get a #7 nut in a little diagonal crack where there's a very small shrub (near dude's head in mountainproject.com/v/10691… ), but it was pretty crappy. Jul 22, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.5
[Hide Comment] Chris, there is nothing awe inspiring in that section, a few options for small nuts and small cams but the best protection for that part is to keep a cool head and punch it for the horizontal. I do remember however, getting a piece out left a foot or two before the horizontal that would have held. Jul 22, 2013
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
[Hide Comment] Nice pitch at the grade in a great location. Unless you are a new trad leader and afraid to extend your pieces, or are teaching multipitch, I don't see any reason why you wouldn't just do this in one pitch. The first pitch is short and basically straight up, and won't add anything to the rope drag equation if you use alpine draws. Aug 22, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.5
[Hide Comment] Wonderful "juggy" Pitch 2. Jul 9, 2018