Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Artist's Bluff

Artist's Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brass Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gawking Peepers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Handy Cap Direct T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Monalisa T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Right Side Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Special Olympics T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Standard Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Standard Route 5.10 variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Standard route 5.7 variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vincent's Ear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,080 total, 9/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A cool variation to the standard's easy start... If you are new to leading id stick with the regular start as this one is a little less secure...

Pitch 1: Start 15 feet right of the regular standard start... Climb sloping ledges past a pin to a left facing corner... Up the corner to a ledge belay from gear or traverse left to belay from pins at the top of the regular first pitch...

Or since you are on the direct start just keep going to the top of the steep section about 100 Ft off the ground and belay from there...

Location

15 feet right of the regular start for standard rt... climb sloping ledges to gain a left facing corner...

Protection

Standard rack...

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Holy crap that's a serious rock fall! Apr 17, 2017
Ming
  5.6
Ming  
  5.6
If feels like the block at the bottom of the left facing corner may be a little loose. It may last a few more years but I'm not sure. Be gentle with it and I think placing any pro using the block may only be mental. Jul 27, 2016
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.6 R
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.6 R
Did this today and did not come across any pin, which made a serious ground fall potential. there is not much gear between 6 feet off the ground and the corner so it is at least R rated without the pin, which neither myself or my partner saw. Oct 4, 2010