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Routes in Artist's Bluff

Artist's Arete (mid-cliff Start) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brass Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gawking Peepers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Handy Cap Direct T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Monalisa T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Right Side Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Special Olympics T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Standard Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Standard Route 5.10 variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Standard route 5.7 variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vincent's Ear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,159 total · 9/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

A cool variation to the standard's easy start... If you are new to leading I'd stick with the regular start as this one is a little less secure...

Pitch 1: Start 15 feet right of the regular standard start... Climb sloping ledges past a pin to a left facing corner... Up the corner to a ledge belay from gear or traverse left to belay from pins at the top of the regular first pitch...

Or since you are on the direct start just keep going to the top of the steep section about 100 Ft off the ground and belay from there...

Location

15 feet right of the regular start for standard rt... climb sloping ledges to gain a left facing corner...

Protection

Standard rack...

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.6 R
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.6 R
Did this today and did not come across any pin, which made a serious ground fall potential. there is not much gear between 6 feet off the ground and the corner so it is at least R rated without the pin, which neither myself or my partner saw. Oct 4, 2010
Ming
  5.6
Ming  
  5.6
If feels like the block at the bottom of the left facing corner may be a little loose. It may last a few more years but I'm not sure. Be gentle with it and I think placing any pro using the block may only be mental. Jul 27, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Holy crap that's a serious rock fall! Apr 17, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
If you compare the "before and after" (the rockfall) photos of the route it would seem that, at the very least, protection points have "gone with the rockfall" and it is unclear if the actual climbing has been made more difficult. I was here July 2018, about a year after the rockfall, and the route looked very difficult to protect for the first 40-50 ft. Jul 9, 2018

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