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Routes in Artist's Bluff

Artist's Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brass Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gawking Peepers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Handy Cap Direct T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Monalisa T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Right Side Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Special Olympics T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Standard Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Standard Route 5.10 variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Standard route 5.7 variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vincent's Ear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 175 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 188 total · 1/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 19, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Description [Edit]

This is a great way to climb the route if you plan to stretch it out to the top in one 60m pitch... Or you can stop where you like after the crux to set up a belay and still do it in 2 pitches...Why is it better this way? read on...

Pitch 1: Climb the first pitch of Standard Route up the face and right facing corner to the big belay ledge... The traditional way to do the variation is to belay from the pins in the vertical crack as you get to the ledge, but thats the crack you will be climbing for the next pitch so the belay will be a bit in the way...

Pitch 2: Assuming you decided to belay at the pins you will now climb up the crack above the belay over a moderate but awkward bulge and on to typical Artist's Bluff moderate and fun lower angle rock to the top...

I'm sure there must be alternate belays at the big ledge but i haven't explored the options much... If you choose to run it in to one big pitch the rope drag isn't too bad but communication can be tough with traffic noise or wind...

Location [Edit]

Climb the Standard Route's first pitch... The variation climbs straight up above the belay...

Protection [Edit]

Regular rack...


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Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Does anyone else think this might deserve a 'R' or 'Pg-13" rating for the moves of the belay because if you blow anything in the crux you will be bouncing off the belay ledge? Dec 4, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
i gave you a pg13... that should keep you happy for a while :) Dec 4, 2011

More About Standard route 5.7 variation