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Routes in Artist's Bluff

Artist's Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brass Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gawking Peepers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Handy Cap Direct T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Monalisa T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Right Side Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Special Olympics T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Standard Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Standard Route 5.10 variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Standard route 5.7 variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vincent's Ear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,477 total · 12/month
Shared By: Brian Aitken on Jan 17, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

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Description

The crux is halfway through the climb at the end of the crimpy traverse, reach up high if I recall correctly and then it's all over - run up to the top.
The rock quality is excellent, well worth doing.

Location

Walk up the base to a chimney which is often wet. Climb the chimney (5.6) then begin traversing right - you get some good exposure and good views. You can walk off.

Protection

Small rack, save some small stuff for the traverse.

Photos

Tyler Moody  
 
I was surprised to find a new looking bolted rap station just above the thread anchor at the end of the second pitch of this climb. I would recommend passing it and continuing upwards - there is more fun climbing to be had by following a right-leaning crack at the back of a deep ledge. This puts you near the top to walk off. Jul 5, 2016
Nate Solnit
Bath, NH
Nate Solnit   Bath, NH
Got on this yesterday but missed the traverse, instead left the first ledge right and up above traverse before reaching high and left, exiting onto a different slab. Definitely off route, but still a fun climb with one tricky move. Jun 5, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Wanted to get on this today but the lower corner was really wet, which I assume is typical for the style of climbing it is. Next time! Oct 4, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
the corner/chimney is in the middle of the main section of the cliff... to the right of standard and left of the 2 bolted routes... best way to find it is to look for the small tree growing on a ledge 30ish feet off the ground below it is your line... Jul 9, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
When on the cliff is the chimney? Right/Middle? Jul 9, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Pitch 1: Climb the corner/chimney with some awkward but not too hard climbing eventually exiting right to the anchor on the tree...

Pitch 2: climb up easily then traverse right on progressivly smaller holds and gear until you can surmount the slab above... Climb easy rock above to a thread anchor...

Pitch 3: climb up moderate rock tou the top...

You can combine pitches 1 and 2 or 2 and 3 but watch rope drag...
A blue TCU and a couple small nuts will help protect the traverse... Apr 15, 2008

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