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Routes in Artist's Bluff

Artist's Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brass Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gawking Peepers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Handy Cap Direct T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Monalisa T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Right Side Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Special Olympics T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Standard Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Standard Route 5.10 variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Standard route 5.7 variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vincent's Ear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,126 total, 18/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 19, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A fun multi pitch trad climb for folks just getting practice or looking for a moderate adventure... Route finding can be a little tricky but some mistakes climb just as well as the intended line...

start way right at the base of the cliff about 75' right and down from the obvious steep bolted route Special Olympics (5.10c)...

Pitch 1: The route starts in a nice left-facing corner... Climb the corner until you can exit right and continue up a nice off-width crack (you dont need and super wide gear for the off-width , there are spots for #2 and #3 camalots)... Belay at the top of the crack on a low angled slab... there are 2 pins for a belay and perhaps some options for backing them up...

Pitch 2: Climb the slab up and right then climb cracks and blocks up left to a bulge and the top...

Location

Right side of the cliff base at a nice left facing corner...

Protection

Regular rack...
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Lucky Luke? Jun 15, 2015
lukeweiss
St. Johnsbury, VT
  5.6
lukeweiss   St. Johnsbury, VT
  5.6
I led the 2nd pitch today and about 50-60' up on the pitch I pulled a giant boulder out of the wall. It was probably 18" across and deep and weighed over 100lbs easy. There is now a sweet little alcove that a small person could sit comfortably in. I was pretty rattled afterward, and finished up the pitch as quickly and carefully as I could, only to find the sheath completely destroyed about 10' down the rope from my tie-in end. Good times. Jun 14, 2015
ed pinskey
bethlehem nh
ed pinskey   bethlehem nh
Try this fun variation. Climb the first pitch of right side route at the pins pull over to the slab of Artist Arete. Keep traversing up and left across mossy dirty slab aiming for the two bolt anchor at the top of Brass Balls, belay here or stretch it out to the top of the overhanging face that is the last pitch of Brass Balls. Can be done in one pitch or as many as you want. Oct 12, 2014