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Routes in Artist's Bluff

Artist's Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brass Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gawking Peepers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Handy Cap Direct T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Monalisa T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Right Side Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Special Olympics T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Standard Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Standard Route 5.10 variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Standard route 5.7 variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vincent's Ear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: John Mallery and Chris Rowens 1989
Page Views: 894 total, 8/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 17, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route

4 Opinions

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Follow bolts up and right following a slab that at first looks pretty moderate but soon is revealed to be quite tricky...The crux is at the second bolt and is hard to read... I ended up going high in to an undercling then right to a good stance...A few more slab moves then you can pull up over a steep section to a stance then make a few thin but not too hard moves up to the main slab leading up to the thread anchor above the route...


Right of Handycap Direct look for bolts trending right up a tricky slabby traverse...


4 bolts to a thread anchor... You might want to bring a few nuts or small cams for the run out to the anchor after the hard stuff is over...

Right now there are no rap rings so you would have to climb to the top after doing the route but i'll try to remember to add some next time im up there...


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Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
I agree lee, the crux is hard to read, I ended up low and did somw weirdness before I moved up the next bolt. We skipped the thread anchor and just went to the anchor on handicap direct. Oct 28, 2009