Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
Routes in Artist's Bluff
|Artist's Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Brass Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Gawking Peepers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Handy Cap Direct T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Little Monalisa T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Right Side Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Special Olympics T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Standard Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Standard Route 5.10 variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Standard route 5.7 variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Vincent's Ear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 60 ft|
|FA:||John Mallery and Chris Rowens 1989|
|Page Views:||894 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Apr 17, 2008|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionFollow bolts up and right following a slab that at first looks pretty moderate but soon is revealed to be quite tricky...The crux is at the second bolt and is hard to read... I ended up going high in to an undercling then right to a good stance...A few more slab moves then you can pull up over a steep section to a stance then make a few thin but not too hard moves up to the main slab leading up to the thread anchor above the route...
Protection4 bolts to a thread anchor... You might want to bring a few nuts or small cams for the run out to the anchor after the hard stuff is over...
Right now there are no rap rings so you would have to climb to the top after doing the route but i'll try to remember to add some next time im up there...
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