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Routes in Artist's Bluff

Artist's Arete (mid-cliff Start) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brass Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gawking Peepers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Handy Cap Direct T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Monalisa T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Right Side Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Special Olympics T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Standard Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Standard Route 5.10 variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Standard route 5.7 variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vincent's Ear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,915 total · 15/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 16, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Little Monalisa is more of a micro crag than a route... There are a few lines that go at different grades from 5.2 to 5.6...

Fun climbing on pretty much 3 different climbs... The left is the easiest...

[2018 Update - check the captions of some of the photos for "route descriptions" Bob Hall ]


A micro crag left of the rest of Artist's Bluff...


A great place to top rope with beginners... 2 bolt anchor in the middle of the cliff... There are a few spots up top to build solid trad/tree/rock anchors... you could also lead the routes with a regular rack...
Barrett Stetson
  5.4 PG13
Barrett Stetson  
  5.4 PG13
While it's a very easy climb, I didn't feel the protection was really that great. The spots you could actually place gear just didn't seem very solid, really. Jul 15, 2010
Matthew Tschiegg  
There are TR bolts to use on the left side of the face. Its a pretty easy climb that's good for beginners. Jul 5, 2011
Sandwich, NH
  5.4 PG13
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.4 PG13
Anybody think this should be divided by the four individual routes that are here? Just wondering what the consensus is... Dec 4, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
if you know the routes well enough you can write up descriptions for them and ill just delete mine... i grouped it together because the book did it that way... not sure if they have real names... Dec 4, 2011
Sandwich, NH
  5.4 PG13
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.4 PG13
Never saw your response to this Lee... So with some delay... I want to climb the routes again before I split them up so i can provide a good description, then I will post them up individually. Once I do that maybe we can split the cliff up by the main section and the Little Mona Lisa with the corresponding routes under the appropriate section. Jan 3, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
cool, it might be over kill to split up such a small cliff with so few routes but it would be cool for you to describe the routes and then ill take down the one i put up... Jan 3, 2012
Hans LaCasse
Canaan, New Hampshire
Hans LaCasse   Canaan, New Hampshire
I climbed this 79ish photos on Bearpond out door adventures Sep 26, 2014
Can the top rope bolts be accessed by walking up, or do you have to lead it first? I'm guessing by the photos that you can walk up, but just want to confirm. Thanks Apr 20, 2017
Couldn't find the Top Rope bolts today, anyone know if they are still there? Jul 13, 2017
Chris Roams
Campton, NH
Chris Roams   Campton, NH
The top rope bolts are there as of today, you just have to scramble down close to the edge to get to them.

There's also an incomplete bolt sticking out of the wall about 2/3 of the way up and to the right of the anchor bolts. It's just a stud in the rock that looks like it's in good shape, like somebody installed it and just forgot to put a hanger and nut on it, and it would make a good directional for top roping the right side of the wall. Does anybody know the story behind it? And would anybody be offended if an enterprising climber went up there and installed a hanger on it so it's usable? Jun 10, 2018
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Sometimes hangers, etc. are removed because someone feels there's no purpose to them; in a TR-area like this I'd go ahead and replace it (be sure the threads in the nut match the hanger) and see if it "stays" or someone pulls it again. Jun 11, 2018

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