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Routes in Artist's Bluff

Artist's Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brass Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gawking Peepers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Handy Cap Direct T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Monalisa T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Right Side Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Special Olympics T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Standard Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Standard Route 5.10 variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Standard route 5.7 variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vincent's Ear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR, 25 ft
FA: Ed Pinskey
Page Views: 358 total, 9/month
Shared By: ed pinskey on Oct 10, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This climb is not located on the main artist bluff cliff. It is on a huge boulder on the bald knob ridge trail. Start under the roofs right side, with a high foot and a hand on the slab.Pull onto the slab to the crack . Clip the bolts and pull over the roof (crux) to the top placing gear if desired.

Location

To locate this climb hike past the artist bluff climbers trail, and once the trail splits go to the left in the direction of bald knob. You will see a very large boulder on your left. This climb starts under the right hand side of the roof.

Protection

Three bolts... optional BD.5 for the run out up top.

Photos

ed pinskey
bethlehem nh
 
ed pinskey   bethlehem nh
 
The crux might feel easier for taller climbers, while being stuffed under the roof is easier for shorter ones. A consensus on the grade would be grate. Oct 12, 2014