Type: Ice, 200 ft
FA: John Bragg and Rick Wilcox - 1973.
Page Views: 5,392 total · 41/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 15, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Just a huge and beautiful chunk of ice... really aesthetic and fun...

Pitch 1: Start up on the lower angle ice right below the obvious columns... Mostly easy climbing with a few bulges leads on to the base of the steep bussiness... Belay at the base of the pillars...

Pitch 2: Climb the pillars which can vary from jug haul grade 3 to steep grade 4 depending on the conditions... Normally you can get between a couple of columns and stem up moderately... The top is right there, belay from trees next to the stream that feeds the flow...

the pitches can be run together with a 70m rope and its super fun that way...

Don't fall in to the hole that the stream goes in to... That would be bad, but it's cool to look in to...

Location

As you hike toward the trestle look for a trail on the left just before it... Follow this trail up a steep hill to the base of the route...

Pegasus is the big flow between Smear and Chia...

Protection

This one is pretty fat so you should get by with a fist full of long screws...
JohnnyG  
It can be done in one pitch with a 60 m rope. We did it today. Feb 15, 2013