Elevation: 1,709 ft
GPS: 44.158, -71.369 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 143,083 total · 838/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 25, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

NOTE: Sub-Areas are listed, roughly, south-to-north as one walks along the RR Tracks from the Arethusa Falls Parking lot. R Hall Admin.

Trains in the Winter ??  On Dec 17th, 2018 around noon I saw a single engine plowing the tracks through the "cut" at the top of the notch. (By Elephant Head) and can only assume the engine cleared the whole way from Bartlett through the notch. No further evidence of plowing was seen the winter of 2018-19 (one of the heaviest snow years in decades) however, whether they try it agin in 2019-20 is not known.  The Conway Scenic Railroad ("CSR"] website, although saying operations ceased for 2018, also list a "Notch Train" as a possible train this winter.  Earlier in Nov/Dec I had thought I'd seen evidence of the tracks being plowed, but didn't believe it.  R Hall NH Admin.

The training grounds... Every Experienced ice climber in NH has spent time cutting their teeth at Frankenstein... It seem like it was designed for the sport, with routes of all grades within a short easy walk from the car... One might start out on Standard Route or one of the easy slabs on there first day out then realize that there is a route for every step of the progression from novice to the skill required to climb the hardest routes anywhere...
Far from the commitment required to climb on Cannon or Lake Willoughby Frankenstein is great for developing the skills on short routes so you have them to work with when you are ready to commit to something a little more uncertain...

Most routes are 1-2 pitches some maybe 3 and there really are routes of every grade... Some classics are Standard Route(3), Chia(3+), Pegasus(3+/4), Dracula(4+), Dropline(5), if things get crowded don't worry these classics are just the tip of the iceburg, look around and you will find more quality ice than you know what to do with... Most routes come in consistently though there are some that will only appear sporadically, you can normally count on having something to climb from December to March but hey we are in New Hampshire and weather is far from an exact science around here...

From the parking area you will hike along a railroad track and look for the ice up the hill on your left the first big ice you will see is Smear(3) a wide flow that can be thin in early season look for a steep ramp running up from right to left...This is followed by the Amphitheater which holds many quality lines... You can check Amphitheater conditions by looking over from the Trestle... Across the Trestle you will get to Standard Route Dracula Area and finally the Hanging Gardens... If you can't find something you like in any of these areas you simply don't like ice climbing...

The cliffs are north facing so plan on being in the shade unless you pick the right route and time it just right... Dress warm cause those belays can get pretty cold when the wind is whipping down the notch...

Getting There

Located in Crawford Notch on Route 302

51 Total Climbs

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Location: * Frankenstein Ice Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Frankenstein Ice

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3+
 89
Chia
Ice
WI4+
 156
Dracula
Ice
WI4
 57
The Penguin
Ice 2 pitches
WI4+
 68
Hobbit Couloir
Ice
WI3+
 79
Pegasus
Ice
WI3 M3
 93
Pegasus Rock Finish
Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
WI5
 26
Dropline
Ice
WI4
 43
Bob's Delight
Ice
WI3+
 168
Standard Route
Ice 2 pitches
WI4+
 36
Chia Direct
Ice
WI3-4
 52
Standard Right
Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
 58
Smear
Trad, Ice
WI3
 31
Main Flow
Ice
WI3
 41
Waterfall
Ice
WI3
 51
Walk in the Forest
Ice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chia 3. Amphitheater Area
 89
WI3+ Ice
Dracula 7. Dropline Area
 156
WI4+ Ice
The Penguin 6. Standard Route Area
 57
WI4 Ice 2 pitches
Hobbit Couloir 3. Amphitheater Area
 68
WI4+ Ice
Pegasus 3. Amphitheater Area
 79
WI3+ Ice
Pegasus Rock Finish 3. Amphitheater Area
 93
WI3 M3 Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
Dropline 7. Dropline Area
 26
WI5 Ice
Bob's Delight 3. Amphitheater Area
 43
WI4 Ice
Standard Route 6. Standard Route Area
 168
WI3+ Ice 2 pitches
Chia Direct 3. Amphitheater Area
 36
WI4+ Ice
Standard Right 6. Standard Route Area
 52
WI3-4 Ice 2 pitches
Smear 3. Amphitheater Area
 58
WI3-4 Trad, Ice
Main Flow 1. Arethusa Falls
 31
WI3 Ice
Waterfall 6. Standard Route Area
 41
WI3 Ice
Walk in the Forest 5. Lost In the Forest…
 51
WI3 Ice
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