Description

Winter 2018 Update - BE ADVISED THE TRAIN IS USING THE TRACKS THIS WINTER !  Dec 17th, 2018 around noon I saw a single engine plowing the tracks through the "cut" at the top of the notch. (By Elephant Head) and can only assume the engine cleared the whole way from Bartlett through the notch. The Conway Scenic Railroad ("CSR"] website, although saying operations ceased for 2018, also list a "Notch Train" as a possible train this winter.  Earlier in Nov/Dec I had thought I'd seen evidence of the tracks being plowed, but didn't believe it. The CSR is under new ownership, so they may be planning winter trains.  R Hall NH Admin.

The training grounds... Every Experienced ice climber in NH has spent time cutting their teeth at Frankenstein... It seem like it was designed for the sport, with routes of all grades within a short easy walk from the car... One might start out on Standard Route or one of the easy slabs on there first day out then realize that there is a route for every step of the progression from novice to the skill required to climb the hardest routes anywhere...
Far from the commitment required to climb on Cannon or Lake Willoughby Frankenstein is great for developing the skills on short routes so you have them to work with when you are ready to commit to something a little more uncertain...

Most routes are 1-2 pitches some maybe 3 and there really are routes of every grade... Some classics are Standard Route(3), Chia(3+), Pegasus(3+/4), Dracula(4+), Dropline(5), if things get crowded don't worry these classics are just the tip of the iceburg, look around and you will find more quality ice than you know what to do with... Most routes come in consistently though there are some that will only appear sporadically, you can normally count on having something to climb from December to March but hey we are in New Hampshire and weather is far from an exact science around here...

From the parking area you will hike along a railroad track and look for the ice up the hill on your left the first big ice you will see is Smear(3) a wide flow that can be thin in early season look for a steep ramp running up from right to left...This is followed by the Amphitheater which holds many quality lines... You can check Amphitheater conditions by looking over from the Trestle... Across the Trestle you will get to Standard Route Dracula Area and finally the Hanging Gardens... If you can't find something you like in any of these areas you simply don't like ice climbing...

The cliffs are north facing so plan on being in the shade unless you pick the right route and time it just right... Dress warm cause those belays can get pretty cold when the wind is whipping down the notch...

Getting There

Located in Crawford Notch on Route 302

48 Total Climbs

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Location: * Frankenstein Ice Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Frankenstein Ice

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3+
 72
Chia
Ice
WI4+
 119
Dracula
Ice
WI4
 41
The Penguin
Ice 2 pitches
WI4+
 44
Hobbit Couloir
Ice
WI3+
 63
Pegasus
Ice
WI3 M3
 67
Pegasus Rock Finish
Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
WI5
 18
Dropline
Ice
WI4
 40
Bob's Delight
Ice
WI3+
 132
Standard Route
Ice 2 pitches
WI4+
 31
Chia Direct
Ice
WI3-4
 43
Standard Right
Ice 2 pitches
WI3+
 46
Smear
Ice
WI3
 25
Main Flow
Ice
WI3
 42
Walk in the Forest
Ice
WI5
 6
Widows Walk
Ice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chia Amphitheater Area
 72
WI3+ Ice
Dracula Dropline Area
 119
WI4+ Ice
The Penguin Standard Route Area
 41
WI4 Ice 2 pitches
Hobbit Couloir Amphitheater Area
 44
WI4+ Ice
Pegasus Amphitheater Area
 63
WI3+ Ice
Pegasus Rock Finish Amphitheater Area
 67
WI3 M3 Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
Dropline Dropline Area
 18
WI5 Ice
Bob's Delight Amphitheater Area
 40
WI4 Ice
Standard Route Standard Route Area
 132
WI3+ Ice 2 pitches
Chia Direct Amphitheater Area
 31
WI4+ Ice
Standard Right Standard Route Area
 43
WI3-4 Ice 2 pitches
Smear Amphitheater Area
 46
WI3+ Ice
Main Flow Arethusa Falls
 25
WI3 Ice
Walk in the Forest "In the Forest" Area
 42
WI3 Ice
Widows Walk Amphitheater Area
 6
WI5 Ice
More Classic Climbs in Frankenstein Ice »

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Photos

Joel Pastuszak
Concord, NH
Joel Pastuszak   Concord, NH
I agree, I've heard great things about this area and was kind of dissapointed when there was't much info to speak of. Jun 17, 2007
reddirt  
Frankenstein is to ice climbing what Stately Pleasure Dome is to rock climbing... practically drive though (ok, Frankenstein actually has a short approach, it's not quite fall out of your car & start belaying).

no sense in reinventing the wheel. More beta at neclimbs.com/index.php?Page…

also click around on neice.com, chauvinguides. Mar 19, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
hopefully this wheel will be better than the old one... i have nothing against the existing sites but i feel at home on the Proj... Mar 19, 2008
Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
Was looking at the routes on NEIce, too bad no-one has added the south face here.
neice.com/2015/01/frankenst… Jan 13, 2015
Kristian Starheim
Trondheim, Norway
Kristian Starheim   Trondheim, Norway
Yes, where is the south-face? Would love to see some info about these beautiful flows! Jan 19, 2015