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Routes in 3. Amphitheater Area
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Angel Cake T WI5- |
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Bachelor's Stroll WI5+ |
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Banshee WI3+ |
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Blobs, The TR WI2-3 |
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Bob's Delight WI4 |
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Bow Saw Buttress WI3-4 |
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Brocken Spectre WI4+ PG13 |
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Cave Route, The WI3+ |
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Chia WI3+ |
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Chia Direct WI4+ |
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Chicken Monger, The S M6+ |
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Gandalf the Great WI4 |
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Hard Rane WI4 |
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Hobbit Couloir WI4+ |
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Pegasus WI3-4 |
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Pegasus Rock Finish WI3+ M3 |
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Screaming T M5 |
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Smear T WI4- |
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Steppe, The WI1 Easy Snow |
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Whisper T M7 |
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Widow's Cave WI4+ |
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Widows Walk WI5 |
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Wild Thing WI4 |
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| Type: | Ice, 200 ft (61 m) |
| FA: | Bryan Becker- 1979. |
| Page Views: | 9,807 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Feb 15, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible.
Details
The Conway Scenic Railroad will be active in Crawford Notch this winter. It is critically important for climbers to avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible. In an effort to minimize time spent on the tracks we are asking that you please take the Frankenstein Cliff Trail to the Amphitheater when climbing at Frankenstein, instead of walking on the tracks directly from the parking lot. Please do not leave packs, gear, or ropes on or near the rails, and avoid belaying near the tracks. Be prepared for trains to pass at any time, all winter.
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
Description
I often looked at this route from the trestle and thought it looked dark and scary...Still I underestimated this one a bit when I looked at it from the ground and read about it... I feel like it's difficulty is typically understated... I must admit that I've only done it once and ice can be subject to major change due to conditions so who knows, but bring all you've got just in case...
Start up the gully on low angle but sometimes tricky ice and some rock scratching... The gully I found to be more awkward and tenuous than I would have planed on, but not too bad considering what you are heading for... There is an optional belay on the left at a small ledge toward the top of the low angle section or if you have a 60m rope just keep heading up to the pillar... When I was on it it was in pretty good shape but the bottom was slightly inverted climbing as i hooked my way up the pillar halfway up it went vertical with some rock foot holds helpful on the sides of the chimney... The top of the pillar was strenuous to protect so i tossed in a 13cm screw and fired in to the top out which was scary at best but fun as well... Basically you top out in to a grove of frozen sand thats not too helpful and you can eventually hook some roots and catch your breath... An exciting experience for sure... Take the time to place good gear in case you need it...
Start up the gully on low angle but sometimes tricky ice and some rock scratching... The gully I found to be more awkward and tenuous than I would have planed on, but not too bad considering what you are heading for... There is an optional belay on the left at a small ledge toward the top of the low angle section or if you have a 60m rope just keep heading up to the pillar... When I was on it it was in pretty good shape but the bottom was slightly inverted climbing as i hooked my way up the pillar halfway up it went vertical with some rock foot holds helpful on the sides of the chimney... The top of the pillar was strenuous to protect so i tossed in a 13cm screw and fired in to the top out which was scary at best but fun as well... Basically you top out in to a grove of frozen sand thats not too helpful and you can eventually hook some roots and catch your breath... An exciting experience for sure... Take the time to place good gear in case you need it...
6 Comments