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Routes in Amphitheater Area

Bachelor's Stroll WI5+
Bob's Delight WI4
Cave Route, The WI3+
Chia WI3+
Chia Direct WI4+
Gandalf the Great WI4
Hard Rane WI4
Hobbit Couloir WI4+
Pegasus WI3+
Pegasus Rock Finish WI3 M3
Screaming T M5
Smear WI3-4
Whisper T M7
Widow's Cave WI4+
Widows Walk WI5
Type: Mixed, Ice, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,881 total, 41/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 15, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

A really cool intro to mixed climbing... The climbing is moderate, well protected and everywhere you stick your tool you find just what you want... A must do if you are interested at all in dry tooling...

Pitch 1: climb the regular start to Pegasus then move right to a 2 bolt belay between a short pillar and the Hobbit gully...

Pitch 2: Climb the short steep pillar left of the belay then up in to the corner... Clip pins and sink in to perfect dry-tooling up the corner stemming when possible... then pull the awkward top out and belay from the trees...

really great fun...

A cool variation start is to head up Hobbit Couloir climbing the beginning of the gully breaking left up a smear of ice and on to a few cool bulges leading right up to the pillar before the mixed stuff on the Rock Finish...

Location

climb the first pitch of Pegasus heading right to a 2 bolt belay just left of Hobbit...

Protection

Screws a few nuts and cams to back up the 3 pins, or just trust them and don't fall...

Photos

Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
When I was guiding a lot I would do this as often as possible. It's 15 feet of the most fun you can have wearing crampons. Nov 28, 2017
Bob A  
I would have to agree about that pillar not being a 3.
I think the only reason it gets that is how short it is.
That is the steepest grade 3 pillar I have ever done ;)
Great route for sure Feb 11, 2014
A Terray
San Diego, CA
A Terray   San Diego, CA
The Pillar is WI4. I was sinking pics into fresh ice. Apparently it doesn't get climbed as often as the surrounding classics. Feb 20, 2012
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
I always cheat and holster a tool. What a fun pitch though! Nov 7, 2010
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  WI3 M3
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  WI3 M3
Someone should put more pitons on the rock finish..... Feb 16, 2010
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Steepest grade 3 I've ever done. Just sayin', the pillar kicked my ass today. Feb 6, 2010
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  WI3 M3
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  WI3 M3
A great intro to mixed climbing on great gear. Jun 1, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I remember climbing the rock finish once and saying to myself, "This is the best ice climbing I have ever done." Then I realized that I was climbing rock. That showed me that I am a rock climber first and an ice climber as a very distant second.

My point is that the rock finish is a perfect drytooling experience. You are still using tools and crampons, but with the added solidity of rock. Highly recommended. Feb 17, 2008