Type: Mixed, Ice, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,594 total · 41/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 15, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

77 Opinions

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A really cool intro to mixed climbing... The climbing is moderate, well protected and everywhere you stick your tool you find just what you want... A must do if you are interested at all in dry tooling...

Pitch 1: climb the regular start to Pegasus then move right to a 2 bolt belay between a short pillar and the Hobbit gully...

Pitch 2: Climb the short steep pillar left of the belay then up in to the corner... Clip pins and sink in to perfect dry-tooling up the corner stemming when possible... then pull the awkward top out and belay from the trees...

really great fun...

A cool variation start is to head up Hobbit Couloir climbing the beginning of the gully breaking left up a smear of ice and on to a few cool bulges leading right up to the pillar before the mixed stuff on the Rock Finish...


climb the first pitch of Pegasus heading right to a 2 bolt belay just left of Hobbit...


Screws a few nuts and cams to back up the 3 pins, or just trust them and don't fall...


Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I remember climbing the rock finish once and saying to myself, "This is the best ice climbing I have ever done." Then I realized that I was climbing rock. That showed me that I am a rock climber first and an ice climber as a very distant second.

My point is that the rock finish is a perfect drytooling experience. You are still using tools and crampons, but with the added solidity of rock. Highly recommended. Feb 17, 2008
Jesse Morehouse
  WI3 M3
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  WI3 M3
A great intro to mixed climbing on great gear. Jun 1, 2008
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Steepest grade 3 I've ever done. Just sayin', the pillar kicked my ass today. Feb 6, 2010
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  WI3 M3
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  WI3 M3
Someone should put more pitons on the rock finish..... Feb 16, 2010
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
I always cheat and holster a tool. What a fun pitch though! Nov 7, 2010
Allison Quirk
San Diego, CA
Allison Quirk   San Diego, CA
The Pillar is WI4. I was sinking pics into fresh ice. Apparently it doesn't get climbed as often as the surrounding classics. Feb 20, 2012
Bob A  
I would have to agree about that pillar not being a 3.
I think the only reason it gets that is how short it is.
That is the steepest grade 3 pillar I have ever done ;)
Great route for sure Feb 11, 2014
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
When I was guiding a lot I would do this as often as possible. It's 15 feet of the most fun you can have wearing crampons. Nov 28, 2017