Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches
FA: P Ross and B and M Wintringham
Page Views: 4,479 total · 27/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 29, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Another smooth and pretty slab climb. A great option if Sliding Board (5.7) is looking like a traffic jam. Though it gets an R rating, most of the harder moves are well protected. The scary part is over right away. This is a very worth while climb if you like slabs and don't mind running it out a little.

Pitch 0: Not normally listed as a pitch but more of an approach. The route really starts at a two bolt anchor, about 250 ft up the slab, and to the left of Ninth Wave (the steep hard slab in the middle of the right side of the slabs). Gain the anchor directly from below or the easier way scrambling over from the Launch Pad. look for a cluster of brush and aim for the anchor below it.

Pitch 1: (5.7) Climb up in to the left-facing corner (pin) a few spooky moves gain easier slab up a groove to an anchor.

Pitch 2: (5.5) Climb over a slab bulge past a bolt (the path of least resistance is not obvious) and make a long run out to an anchor to your right. [Alternate: Above the bolt, trend left and up, passing a few holes for TriCams or Camalots, to the big threaded anchor on Standard Route's arch. P3 then continues on Std Route to the lunch ledge, then take P4 as described below..)

Pitch 3: (5.4)Climb up to lunch ledge by way of slabs and staying right of standard route on the steeper sections following a white cracked section of rock (watch for loose blocks) or just go up standard route.

Pitch 4: (5.7) From Lunch Ledge, climb up and right about 20ft up to a left-slanting corner, follow this to a pin. Step right on to a slick slab and clip a (once very old 3/8") bolt (replaced 2016/17, see COMMENT), carefully move right and up to gain a ramp, follow the ramp back left to a right facing corner, fun moves up the corner past another pin and up to a cramped belay stance (I normally continue left along the over lap and make a steep move right to gain a nice ledge with a fixed rappel sling. A more comfy belay)
watch out for rope drag on this pitch, use lots of runners.

Continue up standard route and hike off, or rap with 2 ropes along a series of bolted anchors.

If you are trying to avoid crowds on a busy day you might like to continue more directly and creativly. From the tree anchor (above pitch 4) you can look up to see an overlap, you can pull the fist and hand crack at a reasonable grade 5.7? maybe then work your way up the slabs above however you can. if you choose this option you are in adventure land so plan on running it out and breaking it in to a couple pitches.

Location

To the right of Standard Route (5.5), look for the left-facing corner (near a small tree) with a bolted anchor below it.
Climb straight up mostly unprotected but moderate slab for 200 feet to the first anchor, or from the launch pad head up and right.

Protection

Standard Whitehorse rack to #3 Camalot, bring some tri cams.

Photos