Slabs Direct

Another smooth and pretty slab climb. A great option if Sliding Board (5.7) is looking like a traffic jam. Though it gets an R rating, most of the harder moves are well protected. The scary part is over right away. This is a very worth while climb if you like slabs and don't mind running it out a little.

Pitch 0: Not normally listed as a pitch but more of an approach. The route really starts at a two bolt anchor, about 250 ft up the slab, and to the left of Ninth Wave (the steep hard slab in the middle of the right side of the slabs). Gain the anchor directly from below or the easier way scrambling over from the Launch Pad. look for a cluster of brush and aim for the anchor below it.

Pitch 1: (5.7) Climb up in to the left-facing corner (pin) a few spooky moves gain easier slab up a groove to an anchor.

Pitch 2: (5.5) Climb over a slab bulge past a bolt (the path of least resistance is not obvious) and make a long run out to an anchor to your right. [Alternate: Above the bolt, trend left and up, passing a few holes for TriCams or Camalots, to the big threaded anchor on Standard Route's arch. P3 then continues on Std Route to the lunch ledge, then take P4 as described below..)

Pitch 3: (5.4)Climb up to lunch ledge by way of slabs and staying right of standard route on the steeper sections following a white cracked section of rock (watch for loose blocks) or just go up standard route.

Pitch 4: (5.7) From Lunch Ledge, climb up and right about 20ft up to a left-slanting corner, follow this to a pin. Step right on to a slick slab and clip a (once very old 3/8") bolt (replaced 2016/17, see COMMENT), carefully move right and up to gain a ramp, follow the ramp back left to a right facing corner, fun moves up the corner past another pin (this pin was missing as of 10/05/25) and up to a cramped (gear) belay stance (I normally continue left along the over lap and make a steep move right to gain a nice ledge with a fixed rappel sling. (May be gone now) A more comfy belay)

watch out for rope drag on this pitch, use lots of runners.

From belay at end of P4 it is best to continue up standard route (5.2-5.4, sparse anchors) and hike off. It is possible to rap with 2 ropes along a series of bolted anchors, but if unfamiliar with the cliff this may be more trouble than it’s worth, and with the tree at end of P4 gone this is not as easy as it once was. (R  Hall edit Jun2025) 

If you are trying to avoid crowds on a busy day you might like to continue more directly and creativly. From the tree anchor (above pitch 4) you can look up to see an overlap, you can pull the fist and hand crack at a reasonable grade 5.7? maybe then work your way up the slabs above however you can. if you choose this option you are in adventure land so plan on running it out and breaking it in to a couple pitches.

To the right of Standard Route (5.5), look for the left-facing corner (near a small tree) with a bolted anchor below it.
Climb straight up mostly unprotected but moderate slab for 200 feet to the first anchor, or from the launch pad head up and right.

Standard Whitehorse rack to #3 Camalot, bring some tri cams.