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Routes in 7. The Slabs

Beginners Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Beginners Easy Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Beginners Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Black Jade T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Booklet, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cormier-Magness Indirect, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cormier-Magness Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dike Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fingertip Trip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 PG13
Interloper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Man O War T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Miner-Joseph-King Dike (aka Dike route left start), The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ninth Wave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pathfinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sea of Holes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slabs Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sliding Board T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Slipshod T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Buttress of Wankers Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Stop if you Dare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Tidal Wave T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Waiting for Comeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wave Bye Bye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Wave Length T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wedge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Wilderness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
White Zone, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 1150 ft, 10 pitches
FA: Fritz Weissner, Robert Underhill, summer 1933
Page Views: 485 total · 16/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 13, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

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Description

An historic but not well traveled route which has some cool parts but is no classic by any means. This is a long moderate line up through the left side of the slab traversing around the headwall to the right and up to the summit.

Not a favorite due to it being a bit dirty and loose in parts but it holds some cool, interesting moves in places.

Pitch 1: 100ft easy 5th class. Scramble up the dike/pockets from the ground on the left side of the slabs to an anchor on the right.

Pitch 2: 130ft 5.2. Follow the dike to a 2 bolt anchor in a toilet bowl pocket.

Pitch 3: 150ft 5.2. climb the dike all the way to a big tree with slings on it.

Pitch 4: 100ft 5.3. Scramble up from the trees toward a right leaning arch. Belay at some trees at the base of the arch. (This is roughly what the book says. I couldn't find a way to get to the arch without climbing 5.6 but I did see an anchor on a cluster of trees that matches this description.

Pitch 5: 130ft 5.6. Follow the arch on nice but sometimes dirty rock until you can pull over the arch and up the slab to a 2 bolt anchor below the steep bolted route "The White Zone".

Pitch 6: 90ft 5.5. A long traverse right leads to an anchor which you can use to rappel. (four 2 rope rappels get you to the ground)

Pitch 7: 90ft 5.5. Continue traversing right until you get to a corner with a couple old pins (upper section of Wedge). Follow the corner up to some ledges.

Pitches 8-10: Adventure time. choose your own adventure through low angle rock and trees to the top.

Location

On the left side of the slabs there are 2 dikes. This is the one on the right.

Protection

Regular Whitehorse rack.

Photos

phylp
Upland
 
phylp   Upland
 
I have to give this route 3 stars, as it's the first route I ever did, in 1980. The feeling I had getting up high on this route started my love of climbing. Feb 5, 2018
Tom Sawyer
North Conway, NH
 
Tom Sawyer   North Conway, NH
 
Out of curiosity, I climbed up to the top of P1 to check on the anchor on the right. I found a piton with a 3 quick links attached. This confirms R.H. comment. You can easily add a small cam or two to one of the small horizontal cracks to the left and below the piton to set up a safe belay station. However, I would not rappel from just the piton. I down climbed about 10' then easily traversed left (south) and up along a sloping ledge to a solid 2 bolt anchor (Dark Horse and The Miner-Joseph-KIng Dike) where I rappeled to the ground. There is another bolt just to the right and below the 2 bolt anchor and appears to be the start of P2 of Pathfinder. Aug 2, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.6
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.6
When I was last up there, about 2014-15, there was no "anchor on the right*" that I found 100 ft up. Certainly no bolted anchor as climbers sort of use the word today. Maybe there's a single, old piton. (?) You could set up a gear belay, but even that was a bit tricky as I recall.

I think most climbers just run it out to the dbl bolt anchor about 60-70m up in the dike.

[ * You could go left to the anchors on Pathfinder ]

The P7 (as described above) "corner" is more like climbing behind a large flake, sort of chimney-like, and quite yellow-ish rock, if I remember correctly from the last time I was there.

P8 to the Top has rocks-and-blocks-and-boulders just sitting on the slab. It's very easy for the rope to get behind or under one of these and start it crashing down the cliff. "Be Careful Up There!" May 3, 2017
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
The first few pitches of this climb are a very good introduction to climbing for a first timer. Basic straightfoward climbing in a non exposed situation. Sep 14, 2015

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