Type: Trad, 1150 ft, 8 pitches
FA: FRA: Paul Cormier, Chris Magness. 8/31/12 ground-up, swapping leads
Page Views: 15,741 total · 190/month
Shared By: chris magness on Sep 2, 2012
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

A good deal of variety for the slabs with fun climbing on every pitch.

1) scramble to the pine tree at the end of the first pitch of Beginner’s Route.

2) “The Wheat Thin Arete” 5.6, 190’. Step right of the tree 10’ and head up toward a bolt. Climb past a horizontal to join a thin flake. Follow the flake to an arête on the right, passing 3 more bolts to a two bolt anchor.

3) “The Cajun Washboard” 5.6, 170’. Straight up off the belay through some bulgy areas passing one bolt to a steeper wall. Move up and right passing 2 more bolts to a two bolt anchor.

4) “The Open Book” 5.6, 200’. Climb a bulge off the belay into an open book. Pass one bolt before reaching the top of the book. Protect and climb rightward through a green licheny area. Climb a short flake and hand crack up to a tree with a blue tat anchor.

5) “The Northwest Passage” 5.5, 60’. Step up and left off the belay into a giant, steep flake. Trend up back right above the flake passing a small tree to a larger tree below a bulge with a horizontal.

6) “The Low Beer Light Pitch” 5.4, 180’. Use the horizontal to clear the bulge. Trend slightly rightward avoiding a dirty water groove to the left. Step back left to a tree belay.

7) “The Platinum Slab” 5.5, 190’. Follow a bulgy groove to an old ¼ bolt bolt and a new 3/8 bolt. Trend up and left passing a faint dike aiming for a white slab and another bolt. Belay at pine tree.

8) “The Top Out Pitch” 5.3, 60’. Climb easy rock straight up to the top.

NOTE the bold text, some climbers climb off route in these areas. If you head straight up from the Open Book, you'll find jungle land. Likewise, if you head straight up from the belay at the end of that pitch, you'll also find jungle land (and an easier variation). If you veer off route in these areas, climbing is feasible at a moderate grade, expect some shwacking!

Pitches 1-4 have fixed rappel stations and are set for rappel with two 60 M ropes. The upper pitches wander through Beginner's Easy terrain and there are trees with tat but it's best to top out after the 4th pitch. Lead with a 60, anything shorter and you’re hosed.

A two pitch, 5.10 variation now exists to pitches 6 and 7. See description in the route index: mountainproject.com/v/the-c…
Climbing the first pitch of this variation does not necessitate climbing the second pitch and will add another pitch more concurrent with those below, albeit a bit more runout.

Location

This route follows a line between Beginner’s Route and Beginner’s Easy and is a straight shot up to the head wall area before it veers to the right. An obvious arete 30' right of Beginner's marks the line.

Protection

The protection is generally good although there are a few typical Whitehorse runouts. Carry a standard Whitehorse rack to a #2 Camalot.

Photos