The Cormier-Magness Route
Avg: 3.3 from 60 votes
Routes in 7. The Slabs
|Beginners Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Beginners Easy Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Beginners Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R|
|Black Jade T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Booklet, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Cormier-Magness Indirect, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Cormier-Magness Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Dark Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Dike Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Fingertip Trip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R|
|Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 PG13|
|Interloper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Man O War T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Miner-Joseph-King Dike (aka Dike route left start), The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Ninth Wave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Pathfinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Sea of Holes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Slabs Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Sliding Board T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Slipshod T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|South Buttress of Wankers Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R|
|Stop if you Dare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Tidal Wave T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Waiting for Comeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Wave Bye Bye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X|
|Wave Length T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Wedge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|White Wilderness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X|
|White Zone, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 1150 ft, 8 pitches|
|FA:||FRA: Paul Cormier, Chris Magness. 8/31/12 ground-up, swapping leads|
|Page Views:||12,984 total, 204/month|
|Shared By:||chris magness on Sep 2, 2012|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionA good deal of variety for the slabs with fun climbing on every pitch.
1) scramble to the pine tree at the end of the first pitch of Beginners Route.
2) The Wheat Thin Arete 5.6, 190. Step right of the tree 10 and head up toward a bolt. Climb past a horizontal to join a thin flake. Follow the flake to an arête on the right, passing 3 more bolts to a two bolt anchor.
3) The Cajun Washboard 5.6, 170. Straight up off the belay through some bulgy areas passing one bolt to a steeper wall. Move up and right passing 2 more bolts to a two bolt anchor.
4) The Open Book 5.6, 200. Climb a bulge off the belay into an open book. Pass one bolt before reaching the top of the book. Protect and climb rightward through a green licheny area. Climb a short flake and hand crack up to a tree with a blue tat anchor.
5) The Northwest Passage 5.5, 60. Step up and left off the belay into a giant, steep flake. Trend up back right above the flake passing a small tree to a larger tree below a bulge with a horizontal.
6) The Low Beer Light Pitch 5.4, 180. Use the horizontal to clear the bulge. Trend slightly rightward avoiding a dirty water groove to the left. Step back left to a tree belay.
7) The Platinum Slab 5.5, 190. Follow a bulgy groove to an old ¼ bolt bolt and a new 3/8 bolt. Trend up and left passing a faint dike aiming for a white slab and another bolt. Belay at pine tree.
8) The Top Out Pitch 5.3, 60. Climb easy rock straight up to the top.
NOTE the bold text, some climbers climb off route in these areas. If you head straight up from the Open Book, you'll find jungle land. Likewise, if you head straight up from the belay at the end of that pitch, you'll also find jungle land (and an easier variation). If you veer off route in these areas, climbing is feasible at a moderate grade, expect some shwacking!
Pitches 1-4 have fixed rappel stations and are set for rappel with two 60 M ropes. The upper pitches wander through Beginner's Easy terrain and there are trees with tat but it's best to top out after the 4th pitch. Lead with a 60, anything shorter and youre hosed.
A two pitch, 5.10 variation now exists to pitches 6 and 7. See description in the route index: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-cormier-magness-indirect/110616961
Climbing the first pitch of this variation does not necessitate climbing the second pitch and will add another pitch more concurrent with those below, albeit a bit more runout.