Type: Trad, 150 ft, Grade II
FA: Webster/Comeau 1985
Page Views: 249 total · 8/month
Shared By: john strand on Oct 12, 2016
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

I can't believe nobody has added this one. Great rock and really good climbing. Don't try this one in summer

Go up and through a black sweep of rock and join Wavelength above the Standard Arch. Some might call the start a bit bold.

Location

Left of Wavelength. The main pitch goes over a swell of black rock that appears blank. Start up Standard Route. Some recent ascents approach from Tidal Wave ? Never done that

Protection

a few bolts and 2 ? pins. Bring a medium cam and assorted wires. 2 ropes to get down or top out. There is a natural thread placement as well.

Photos

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Jason Gates
  5.10b/c
Jason Gates  
  5.10b/c
Amazing route! Surprising gear, and linking two great climbs already, makes this a great introduction to 5.10 slab. If you've climbed Hotter than Hell, you will feel like a champ after this; if you've climbing Ventilator, you'll be fine. We did this route after a dry spell in Spring. I was told I had to look out for a wet spot starting off from standard, but thankfully there was no sign of it. We placed the belay roughly thirty feet down and left from Standard Route's thread belay. I thanked myself for this adjustment, because I made this pitch 195 feet. We waited for the afternoon Sun to set behind the Last Wave lip so that I could see where the hell to go (maybe better to do this in the morning). There's a brown tri-cam pocket placement to the left just before taking off toward the bolt. Extend this. Then the magic happens. A chance for gear in a right facing flake and then the bolt and crux then straight up at a touch of 5.10b/c and the climbing does get a little easier. Look leftwards after several pads to find a couple pockets (I think BD 0.4 and black tri-cam) and an angle piton above the right end of a small overlap. Back back right to the second bolt and getting there I found a slippery moment. More great gear from pockets and save your red tri-cam beside a thread pocket that both Jerry and Webster say takes a 5mm cord but the tri-cam was so much better. Besides, who wants to try and re-thread that existing one while on 5.9 slab. This was the last gear for 50 feet before the belay, so this is 5.6/7R as it approachs Sliding Board. At thirty feet left in the rope, I found myself deciding between going over steep 5.8R to my right to get to Wavelength's double rings or twenty feet left to a rusty 1/4 inch button head and poor cracks on Sliding Board's mid-pitch. I choice neither and pushed onward for 25 feet up risking no good gear for a belay but I spotted a miniature "toilet bowl". I spent some time putting together my proudest achievement of the day with a #1, a green alien, stopper #9, and a blue tri-cam. Another #2 or #3 would have sealed the deal, but I used them up on the pitch. So a 70m rope would have made it to the very base of Sliding Board's headwall pitch. May 14, 2018