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Routes in 7. The Slabs

Beginners Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Beginners Easy Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Beginners Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Black Jade T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Booklet, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cormier-Magness Indirect, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cormier-Magness Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dike Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fingertip Trip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 PG13
Interloper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Man O War T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Miner-Joseph-King Dike (aka Dike route left start), The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ninth Wave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pathfinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sea of Holes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slabs Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sliding Board T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Slipshod T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Buttress of Wankers Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Stop if you Dare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Tidal Wave T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Waiting for Comeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wave Bye Bye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Wave Length T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wedge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Wilderness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
White Zone, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 8 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,956 total · 47/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 23, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This route is perfect for a really beginner leader just looking to practice the craft or an easy non committing solo up the slabs... It is a bit dirty in a few part but all in all i was pleasantly surprised...

Pitch 1: (5.2) same at Beginners route... Climb straight up to the big pine tree...

Pitch 2: (5.2) Move right and climb a slightly crumbly gully to another tree anchor...

Pitch 3: (low 5th class) scramble up this dirty pitch through trees to another tree anchor...

Pitch 4: (5.3) Up and right to an AWESOME crack that leads up to the steep headwall... As the crack ends move to the right and belay from a tree on the edge of the woods...

Pitch 5: (5.3) Find your favorite way to get through the steep section and start up the slab maze above...

Pitches 6-8: Weave your way through the slabs being careful not to get yourself in to a bind as the gear is scarce... For the most part staying right looked easiest... there are trees to belay from here and there...

Location

The farthest route right on the slabs...
You can rap along the route from the overlaps if you don't like the moderate adventure at the top...

Protection

Normal rack... Rap rings on the trees most of the way...
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
  5.3
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
  5.3
lee their is an old 1/4 inch bolt on the top slabs and i do mean old.was i on the right route Oct 12, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i have no idea josh but the top is kinda up to you id id say you were on... im psyched that you got on it... fun huh? Oct 13, 2009
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
  5.3
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
  5.3
very fun the top slab was a long run out.we just went stright up insted of working the trees.i have some pics i will put them up when i get a chance. Oct 20, 2009
jimmi jazz
Denver co
jimmi jazz   Denver co
i love to solo this route. it one of my favs on white horse. yes josh there is an old bolt up on the top pitch Apr 30, 2010
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
  5.3
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
  5.3
Kinda random place for a bolt. Apr 30, 2010
Patrick Feeney
hartland vt
Patrick Feeney   hartland vt
i was wondering if anyone could tell me what gear works best for this climb.a friend and i want to do it.i have 5 quickdraws.1-7 of nuts,5 slings,what else should we need to do this. Sep 10, 2010
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
  5.3
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
  5.3
Hi Patrick, Nuts will do just fine if you have any cams samll they will be good to.There are trees to ancor to on every belay ledge.Jim Dickson and I just climbed this route on Sunday and we only placed 5 peices of pro.It one of my favorits.
joshua Sep 10, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
A friend and I got lost on this and had to bail after the awesome crack. Where does it go from the end of the crack? Nov 13, 2012
Chris Lumens
Merrimack, NH
 
Chris Lumens   Merrimack, NH
 
After the awesome crack, we continued climbing straight up to a large tree with some slings on it right below the headwall. Then we angled off right into the trees and then up and back left into another open area. Then I led us probably way too far right into some easy but wet and mossy terrain, necessitating a giant traverse back left through a bowl and up to some solid trees. After that, there is a fantastic dike that goes straight up to within sight of the summit. I was only able to place one cam in this 120-150' stretch, but it was super easy. I never saw any old bolts.

Hope that helps somewhat. It's hard to describe the route, of course. It goes all over the place. Jul 13, 2013
Chris Lumens
Merrimack, NH
 
Chris Lumens   Merrimack, NH
 
Gear - we used most every cam from #2 down to aliens at some point, and two or three tricams. Nuts didn't see any use. We probably slung more trees than placed gear, so bring extra slings (including some fairly long) and biners for that. Jul 13, 2013
dragons
MWV, NH
 
dragons   MWV, NH
 
Can anyone provide info on how to proceed beyond P4, relative to Cormier-Magness? I've done it several times and always wind up at the exit cracks of The Open Book pitch of Cormier-Magness. I belay there, then follow Cormier-Magness to the top, because I don't see another way to go. I saw Chris Lumens comment... are you really supposed to navigate off right into trees at the top of the Open Book? Aug 26, 2016

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