Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches
FA: Hebert C Towle and friends 1930's
Page Views: 15,139 total · 101/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jun 3, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


72 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The Beginners Route is just as fun as the Standard Route but sees far less traffic mostly due in my mind to over sight by folks that are just used to climbing the Standard, also there is a bit of a committing section on the 5th pitch where you are required to run it out a bit on friction... So if you are very comfortable on Standard and you think you could keep your wits about you for a pitch of run out 5.5, next time you hit the slabs give this one a try, it really wont let you down...

Pitch 1: Scamper up to the pine tree about 100 feet up on the right end of the slab...

Pitch 2: 5.5 Head left from the tree and gain a crack... Climb the crack over a bulge and when it ends follow a dike to a 2 bolt belay...

Pitch 3: 5.1 follow the easy dike to another 2 bolt belay... you will be looking above you at the right trending arch...

Pitch 4: 5.2 Follow the arch to the right and belay at an anchor near a flake...

Pitch 5: 5.5 Climb up and over the bulge on the flake and on to the slab above... Friction your way up the slab aiming for the corner at the left of the overlaps above you... belay from the bottom of the corner...

Pitch 6: 5.4 climb up the corner with friction and some cracks until you can climb straight up over the steep wall on your right to a pine tree with a thread belay next to a block... This is a comfy scenic spot to chill and take it all in...

Pitch 7: 5.4 Climb around the block and continue up the ramp until you see a dike in the steep wall to your right climb moderately up the dike and on to trees above...

Pitch 8-top (300ft): from here you can chose your own adventures on to the top but if it gets harder than 5.3 find a better way... i like to traverse over on an exposed slab (kinda scary at first) and join standard routes dikes to the top but there are many choices...

Care full route finding may be required on the second half to avoid an epic... Just take your time and bring your guide book...

Location

on the far right side of the slabs look for a big pine tree about 100 feet up the low angle rock...

Protection

A standard whitehorse rack...

Photos