Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 10 pitches
FA: Hebert C Towle and friends 1930's
Page Views: 12,957 total · 98/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jun 3, 2008
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

64 Opinions

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The Beginners Route is just as fun as the Standard Route but sees far less traffic mostly due in my mind to over sight by folks that are just used to climbing the Standard, also there is a bit of a committing section on the 5th pitch where you are required to run it out a bit on friction... So if you are very comfortable on Standard and you think you could keep your wits about you for a pitch of run out 5.5, next time you hit the slabs give this one a try, it really wont let you down...

Pitch 1: Scamper up to the pine tree about 100 feet up on the right end of the slab...

Pitch 2: 5.5 Head left from the tree and gain a crack... Climb the crack over a bulge and when it ends follow a dike to a 2 bolt belay...

Pitch 3: 5.1 follow the easy dike to another 2 bolt belay... you will be looking above you at the right trending arch...

Pitch 4: 5.2 Follow the arch to the right and belay at an anchor near a flake...

Pitch 5: 5.5 Climb up and over the bulge on the flake and on to the slab above... Friction your way up the slab aiming for the corner at the left of the overlaps above you... belay from the bottom of the corner...

Pitch 6: 5.4 climb up the corner with friction and some cracks until you can climb straight up over the steep wall on your right to a pine tree with a thread belay next to a block... This is a comfy scenic spot to chill and take it all in...

Pitch 7: 5.4 Climb around the block and continue up the ramp until you see a dike in the steep wall to your right climb moderately up the dike and on to trees above...

Pitch 8-top (300ft): from here you can chose your own adventures on to the top but if it gets harder than 5.3 find a better way... i like to traverse over on an exposed slab (kinda scary at first) and join standard routes dikes to the top but there are many choices...

Care full route finding may be required on the second half to avoid an epic... Just take your time and bring your guide book...


on the far right side of the slabs look for a big pine tree about 100 feet up the low angle rock...


A standard whitehorse rack...
Adam Wilcox
Candia, NH
  5.5 PG13
Adam Wilcox   Candia, NH
  5.5 PG13
Just climbed this today. I'd agree that it's at least as good as Standard. Less crowded too. Sep 13, 2009
Newmarket, NH
  5.5 R
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.5 R
Fun route, better time than I expected. Good to simul-climb/solo. Sep 29, 2009
Pete Johnston
Irvine, California
  5.5 R
Pete Johnston   Irvine, California
  5.5 R
Louise and I both really enjoyed this route. Need two ropes for rappels. The locals told us, "no one tops out, the trail down isn't really there." We climbed with one rope, then did a VERY creative rappel to join up with our friends who climbed Sliding Board. We all four rappeled together at that point. Epic averted! Oct 4, 2010
AWinters   NH  
The trail is definitely there. Topping out is more than worth it. Jun 26, 2011
Mike McLean  
There is most definitely a trail down from the top. And it is a very obvious one at that (marked most of the way). I'd submit that if you top out, it's possibly quicker to walk off. Oct 11, 2011
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
The trail down may be harder than the route. This is a nice mellow climb with great rock.. Oct 12, 2011
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
This route is as good, if not better than Standard Route, and is almost never crowded. Beware of the name, however; it is not a good choice for novice leaders (even though the rating is mellow). As with most Whitehorse slab routes, there are some very long runnouts. May 22, 2012
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
How is the gear through the arch? Looking to maybe lead it. Im a begining leader but am following most of the route Aug 21, 2012
Gear in the arch is great, although I usually run it and blast up the slab to the right of the arch instead and get protection in a flake at the top of the arch. Sep 2, 2012
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Beginner's Route Question: At the top of the arch on pitch four (right before the run-out 5.5 fifth pitch) there are TWO two-bolt belay stations. One is right above the arch (which is on-route), and the other one is twenty feet to the right. About twenty feet above the belay anchors to the right is another bolt. Does anybody know what the deal is with the anchors to the right of the route? Is it a variation? My son and I were climbing the route yesterday and it began to rain, so I scurried up from the right anchors, past the bolt, and up a somewhat runout rock rib (5.5) to an old gnarly tree. From there, we traversed right to the trees and "Beginner's Easy." I'm just curious what the deal is with these anchors to the right (and the bolt above them). There is no mention of these anchors in Jerry Handren's 2012 guidebook. Aug 15, 2013
joshua corbett
Wolfeboro NH
joshua corbett   Wolfeboro NH
Nick its The Cormier-Magness Route Aug 16, 2013
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
The second pitch is great! May 28, 2014
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
For the Pitch 8 to the top choose-your-own-adventure section, if you are looking for the easiest way off I suggest hiking 30 feet to the right of the belay. (We just untied and carried the rope over with us). You will see an obvious dike that goes at 5.0 or easier (unprotected) to a ledge up above with plenty of trees to belay from. From that ledge, you can again untie and hike a little bit to the right to join up with another easy dike in the area of 5.0 that leads to another tree belay. Many very easy and obvious choices from here.

Realistically, if your second is a confident climber and your were both confident on the 5.5 pitch there is no reason you can't just solo all of this.

You will want to either do this, or go left and meet up with Standard Route. Climbing straight up towards the obvious horizontal/arched crack and the big splitter crack on the wall above, although you can't really tell from the belay, is featureless and covered in lichen in the area above the horizontal crack, and I wouldn't recommend it. May 30, 2016