Avg: 3 from 56 votes
Routes in 7. The Slabs
|Beginners Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Beginners Easy Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Beginners Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R|
|Black Jade T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Booklet, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Cormier-Magness Indirect, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Cormier-Magness Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Dark Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Dike Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Fingertip Trip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R|
|Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 PG13|
|Interloper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Man O War T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Miner-Joseph-King Dike (aka Dike route left start), The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Ninth Wave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Pathfinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Sea of Holes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Slabs Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Sliding Board T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Slipshod T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|South Buttress of Wankers Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R|
|Stop if you Dare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Tidal Wave T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Waiting for Comeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Wave Bye Bye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X|
|Wave Length T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Wedge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|White Wilderness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X|
|White Zone, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft, 10 pitches|
|FA:||Hebert C Towle and friends 1930's|
|Page Views:||11,651 total, 101/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Jun 3, 2008|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThe Beginners Route is just as fun as the Standard Route but sees far less traffic mostly due in my mind to over sight by folks that are just used to climbing the Standard, also there is a bit of a committing section on the 5th pitch where you are required to run it out a bit on friction... So if you are very comfortable on Standard and you think you could keep your wits about you for a pitch of run out 5.5, next time you hit the slabs give this one a try, it really wont let you down...
Pitch 1: Scamper up to the pine tree about 100 feet up on the right end of the slab...
Pitch 2: 5.5 Head left from the tree and gain a crack... Climb the crack over a bulge and when it ends follow a dike to a 2 bolt belay...
Pitch 3: 5.1 follow the easy dike to another 2 bolt belay... you will be looking above you at the right trending arch...
Pitch 4: 5.2 Follow the arch to the right and belay at an anchor near a flake...
Pitch 5: 5.5 Climb up and over the bulge on the flake and on to the slab above... Friction your way up the slab aiming for the corner at the left of the overlaps above you... belay from the bottom of the corner...
Pitch 6: 5.4 climb up the corner with friction and some cracks until you can climb straight up over the steep wall on your right to a pine tree with a thread belay next to a block... This is a comfy scenic spot to chill and take it all in...
Pitch 7: 5.4 Climb around the block and continue up the ramp until you see a dike in the steep wall to your right climb moderately up the dike and on to trees above...
Pitch 8-top (300ft): from here you can chose your own adventures on to the top but if it gets harder than 5.3 find a better way... i like to traverse over on an exposed slab (kinda scary at first) and join standard routes dikes to the top but there are many choices...
Care full route finding may be required on the second half to avoid an epic... Just take your time and bring your guide book...