Avg: 3 from 78 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches|
|FA:||Hebert C Towle and friends 1930's|
|Page Views:||16,389 total · 101/month|
|Shared By:||Lee Hansche on Jun 3, 2008 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
The Beginners Route is just as fun as the Standard Route but sees far less traffic mostly due in my mind to over sight by folks that are just used to climbing the Standard, also there is a bit of a committing section on the 5th pitch where you are required to run it out a bit on friction... So if you are very comfortable on Standard and you think you could keep your wits about you for a pitch of run out 5.5, next time you hit the slabs give this one a try, it really wont let you down...
Some revisions made 7/11/21 by R Hall with permission of Lee.
Pitch 1: Scamper up to the dbl bolt anchor about 15-20 ft left of the pine tree about 110 feet up on the right end of the slab.
Pitch 2: 5.5 -5.6 PG-13 115 ft. Climb a shallow corner directly above the dbl bolt anchor to a crack, up this ( large cam, #3 or #4 helpful) and when it ends follow a dike past two bolts to a 2 bolt belay.
Pitch 3: 5.1 - 5.2R follow the easy dike 100 ft to another 2 bolt belay... you'll be looking above you at the right trending arch...There is no pro on this pitch.
Pitch 4: 5.3 - 5.4 Climb just right of the arch for about 115 ft, and belay at a dbl bolt anchor high above a flake. ( semi-hanging belay) The dbl bolt anchor 25 ft to your right belongs to Cormier-Magness.
P3 and P4 can be combined with a 70m rope (If your 60m is “cut long” it might just make it with a couple of feet to spare)
Pitch 5: 5.5R Climb up, passing an ancient ring piton (couple of photos of the pin) and over the bulge and on to a stance about 20 ft above the belay. Here there are two choices:
5A) Friction your way pretty much straight up the slab on darker, “ grabby “ rock running out 60-70 ft, aiming for the left end of a small overlap above you ( #1, Red Camelot in a “ hole” on its left, watch for wasps ) then traverse left 35-40 ft to the dbl bolt anchor on the “Smile” belay ledge.
5B) Alternately, from the stance 20 +/- ft above the belay, step left on slightly smoother rock and continue left at about a 45-degree angle, passing a different #1-Camalot “hole” about 30-35 ft out. ( Hole may be a bit lower than the line you chose) then continue left to a shallow open book ( gear) and directly up this to the same “Smile” belay. Less run out than option 1, but the rock a bit less “ grabby”. Easier, I think, than the top of P2. ( Text Added by R Hall 7/11/21)
Pitch 6: 5.5 - 5.6. 140 ft ( less to rap it) From the Smile belay climb up easy friction (on the right) to a shallow corner with a good crack in its base. Climb this, past a piton, until it’s top ( good gear, both in lower crack and an upper crack) where you can climb out of the corner to the right to a stance on a sloping slab with an ancient piton in a crack.[ photo ] Step right on the slab and make a few moves up the steep wall to a ledge with a pine tree and a thread belay around a block. Careful placements and long slings will reduce rope drag on this pitch. The ledge is a comfy scenic spot to chill and take it all in...
Note- from here with a full- length 70m rope ( but NOT a 60 m !) you can rap to the ground with six (6) single- rope raps. ( The 2nd to last rap [ down P2 ] could be close…tie knots !, and on the last rap you must go climbers-right ( skiers left) of the small tree 35 ft down from the last dbl bolt anchor.)
Pitch 7: 5.4 Climb around the block (“funky“ move, I [R H] forget whether you go over or around the block. You’ll figure it out!) and continue up the ramp* passing a bolt until you see a dike in the steep wall to your right. Climb easily up the dike and into trees above. *The ramp you are on is one ramp above the Std Route’s ramp.
Pitches 8 to top (400 ft): from here you can chose your own adventures on to the top but if it gets harder than 5.3 find a better way... i like to traverse over on an exposed slab (kinda scary at first) and join standard routes dikes to the top but there are many choices...
Care full route finding may be required on the second half ( P5, 6, and 7) to avoid an epic... Just take your time and bring your guide book...
History- Prior to the dbl bolt anchor being placed at the “Smile” belay the route nearly always followed “ 5A” to the base of the shallow corner mentioned in P6, and a gear belay established. [ The angle piton (plus cams or nuts)being part of the belay anchor. ] “Back in the days” without Camalots or Tricams this was a super long run out pitch !