All Locations > New Hampshire > Whitehorse Ledge > 07. The Slabs

The Cormier-Magness Indirect

Name: The Cormier-Magness Indirect
Rating: 2.7

5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in 07. The Slabs

L › R R › L A › Z

	Beginners Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Beginners Easy Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Beginners Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
	Black Jade T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Booklet, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Cormier-Magness Indirect, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cormier-Magness Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Creepy Cowboy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dark Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Dike Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Fingertip Trip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Flake, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 PG13
	Horse Tranquilizer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Interloper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Kettle Call T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Man O War T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Miner-Joseph-King Dike (aka Dike route left start), The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Ninth Wave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Pathfinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Sea of Holes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Slabs Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Sliding Board T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Slipshod T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	South Buttress of Wankers Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Stadtmüller-Griffin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
	Stop if you Dare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Tidal Wave T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Upper Right Ramp T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
	Waiting for Comeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wave Bye Bye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
	Wave Length T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Wedge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	White Wilderness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
	White Zone, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

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Type:	Trad, 380 ft (115 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	44.055, -71.16605
FA:	FRA: Magness and McCoy, 6/15
Page Views:	3,569 total · 28/month
Shared By:	chris magness on Jun 15, 2015
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

A two pitch variation to The Cormier-Magness.

Climb CM's first five pitches. After the Northwest Passage, walk climber's right 20' and reset the belay in a low horizontal.

Pitch 1, Gritty McDuff, 5.7
Step up and right from the belay and follow a slab straight up passing two bolts before joining the Low Beer Light pitch (approx 50'). The climbing eases as you approach the no-fall zone. A little spicy toward the top of the slab on mellow terrain. 180'

Pitch 2, The Chaser, 5.10
From Low Beer Light's tree, step down a few feet and right. Straight up again over an obvious bulge. Pass two bolts before joining the Platinum Slab (approx 30'). A smidge stiffer than Interloper's first pitch. 190'

Rock quality on both pitches is superb as is the climbing. I didn't scrub at all; traffic will clean things up. If the variations were longer and more independent, the star quality would be higher.

As per usual: free and on lead.

A long draw on the first bolt of each pitch should help with drag.