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Routes in 7. The Slabs

Beginners Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Beginners Easy Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Beginners Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Black Jade T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Booklet, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cormier-Magness Indirect, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cormier-Magness Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dike Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fingertip Trip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 PG13
Interloper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Man O War T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Miner-Joseph-King Dike (aka Dike route left start), The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ninth Wave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pathfinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sea of Holes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slabs Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sliding Board T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Slipshod T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Buttress of Wankers Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Stop if you Dare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Tidal Wave T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Waiting for Comeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wave Bye Bye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Wave Length T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wedge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Wilderness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
White Zone, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: A and J Comeau
Page Views: 5,889 total, 46/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jun 20, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Taking Standard Route's direct route (Quarts Pocket), to Wave Length and on to Sliding Board is a great link up and a great way to avoid crowds if you time it right....

Wave Length has some pure friction and some face climbing on it, but even the face climbing feels slippery and a little insecure, so you will thank your sticky rubber.... It is really fun and a must do for fans of the slabs....

Pitch 1: (5.8) From the thread anchor on standard, make one or two moves to clip the first bolt and pull over the bulge.... Head straight up to the next bulge and conveniently the next bolt.... Clip a long draw on the bolt, because you need to head left and get in to the sustained steep stuff and you wont want the rope drag...place a piece or two and make a reachy move to a good pocket and scamper up to the slippery dike...where you will get the pleasure of fine climbing and 3 well placed bolts.... Follow the dike to a 2 bolt anchor....

Pitch 2: (5.6) Head straight up the slab to and overlap, protect, and run it out up another slippery dike to another 2 bolt anchor (the one below the steep dike pitch on Sliding Board....

Pitch 3: (5.7) This pitch is not always done as the steep dike is really fun; however, the true route heads out right on a slab then back left on another slab until you can use a flake to get over the overlap.... Head up and meet up with sliding board at the comfortable belay ledge....

Location

Wave Length starts at the thread anchor at the top of the arch of Standard Route.... At the thread anchor, look up and you will see the first bolt....

Protection

5 bolts and a small trad rack.... Small to medium nuts and cams and a few tricams....
Gabe13 Flanders
Eaton Center, New Hampshire
 
Gabe13 Flanders   Eaton Center, New Hampshire
 
No nut/hanger on post-crux bolt as of 5/26/17. Bring a wire! May 27, 2017
petr07 Lindahl
  5.9-
petr07 Lindahl  
  5.9-
The crux move took all 5'9" of my body and soul. I don't know how anyone shorter does that. And it doesn't end there. I found the slopey dike after the steep crux to be perhaps more "thought provoking". Jun 5, 2016
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
For people that are not 6'+ tall, getting established on this route's last steep section has the single coolest move I have done on the slabs. Sep 28, 2015
Bob A  
My favorite pitch on the slabs.So much fun! Sep 3, 2012
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
 
This is one of the sweetest pitches on the slabs. It's much more thought provoking than most other pitches in the vicinity---not just another smear-fest. The crux move is deviously wonderful (and will feel hard if you're short). Here's a hint: lean left...way left. Nope, even farther... May 22, 2012
MJO
  5.8
MJO  
  5.8
Wavelength is a great slab climb that is very well proctected. I generally climb only the 1st pitch and wrap off. Nice climb for anyone looking to advance into 5.8 leading that involves good footwork. Jun 30, 2010