Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: A and J Comeau
Page Views: 6,336 total · 45/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jun 20, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


38 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Taking Standard Route's direct route (Quarts Pocket), to Wave Length and on to Sliding Board is a great link up and a great way to avoid crowds if you time it right....

Wave Length has some pure friction and some face climbing on it, but even the face climbing feels slippery and a little insecure, so you will thank your sticky rubber.... It is really fun and a must do for fans of the slabs....

Pitch 1: (5.8) From the thread anchor on standard, make one or two moves to clip the first bolt and pull over the bulge.... Head straight up to the next bulge and conveniently the next bolt.... Clip a long draw on the bolt, because you need to head left and get in to the sustained steep stuff and you wont want the rope drag...place a piece or two and make a reachy move to a good pocket and scamper up to the slippery dike...where you will get the pleasure of fine climbing and 3 well placed bolts.... Follow the dike to a 2 bolt anchor....

Pitch 2: (5.6) Head straight up the slab to and overlap, protect, and run it out up another slippery dike to another 2 bolt anchor (the one below the steep dike pitch on Sliding Board....

Pitch 3: (5.7) This pitch is not always done as the steep dike is really fun; however, the true route heads out right on a slab then back left on another slab until you can use a flake to get over the overlap.... Head up and meet up with sliding board at the comfortable belay ledge....

Location

Wave Length starts at the thread anchor at the top of the arch of Standard Route.... At the thread anchor, look up and you will see the first bolt....

Protection

5 bolts and a small trad rack.... Small to medium nuts and cams and a few tricams....

Photos

MJO
  5.8
MJO  
  5.8
Wavelength is a great slab climb that is very well proctected. I generally climb only the 1st pitch and wrap off. Nice climb for anyone looking to advance into 5.8 leading that involves good footwork. Jun 30, 2010
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
 
This is one of the sweetest pitches on the slabs. It's much more thought provoking than most other pitches in the vicinity---not just another smear-fest. The crux move is deviously wonderful (and will feel hard if you're short). Here's a hint: lean left...way left. Nope, even farther... May 22, 2012
Bob A  
My favorite pitch on the slabs.So much fun! Sep 3, 2012
Eli .
GMC3500
 
Eli .   GMC3500
 
For people that are not 6'+ tall, getting established on this route's last steep section has the single coolest move I have done on the slabs. Sep 28, 2015
petr07 Lindahl
  5.9-
petr07 Lindahl  
  5.9-
The crux move took all 5'9" of my body and soul. I don't know how anyone shorter does that. And it doesn't end there. I found the slopey dike after the steep crux to be perhaps more "thought provoking". Jun 5, 2016
Gabe13 Flanders
Eaton Center, New Hampshire
 
Gabe13 Flanders   Eaton Center, New Hampshire
 
No nut/hanger on post-crux bolt as of 5/26/17. Bring a wire! May 27, 2017
Jay Stanley
Little Rock, AR
  5.8
Jay Stanley   Little Rock, AR
  5.8
This route is so damn good! Everyone says getting established is a height crux - my 5'4" friend was able to do it with some awkwardness. We all felt that the crux is both getting established in the dike AND the subsequent sustained moves. the crux was really the sustained insecurity from the "tall" move to the anchors!

There's no hanger on the first of the last 3 bolts, making that post crux sequence oh so spicy to me, the budding 5.8 leader. I had wires but didn't see where to put them. After coming home and doing some research I wonder, Gabe, do you mean to girth the bolt by sliding the nut down the wire and cinching it around the bolt like they do with carrot bolts in Autralia? I suppose it might work here but would probably be only slightly safer than just running it out. May 23, 2018
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
The guidebook says that the 5.8 pitch is 90', but it is more like 105-110'. It seemed like you will need a 70m if you want to lower back to the thread anchor or rap down with only one rope. We did it this way so that we could both lead the pitch, and then continue up to lunch ledge and the phenomenal 5.7 pitch of slabs direct.

If you have a 70m rope you can get to the base of Wave Length in two pitches. Do a pitch straight from the launch pad to the base of the arch (5.3R, a couple of pieces of gear along the way). Then do the whole arch to the thread anchor, which is totally fine as long as you extend any pieces you place well.

It's a fantastic pitch! PG13 is probably deserved, but this is Whitehorse after all so I guess that's implied... Jul 11, 2018
Bob A  
Post Crux bolt hanger has been installed today(8/5/18)
Go climb it! Aug 5, 2018