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Routes in 7. The Slabs

Beginners Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Beginners Easy Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Beginners Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Black Jade T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Booklet, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cormier-Magness Indirect, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cormier-Magness Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dike Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fingertip Trip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 PG13
Interloper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Man O War T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Miner-Joseph-King Dike (aka Dike route left start), The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ninth Wave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pathfinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sea of Holes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slabs Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sliding Board T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Slipshod T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Buttress of Wankers Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Stop if you Dare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Tidal Wave T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Waiting for Comeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wave Bye Bye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Wave Length T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wedge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Wilderness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
White Zone, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 7 pitches
FA: Many people put up the different pitches before they were linked
Page Views: 3,247 total, 33/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Oct 20, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

A thrill-ride of a route.... It just keeps you on your toes the whole way (no pun intended) with equal parts technical difficult moves and spooky run outs that demand your attention... A whitehorse must do if you like hard slabs but dont get in over your head...

Pitch 1: Same as Sliding board, climb moderate but unprotected slabs to the same double bolt anchor as Sliding Board... Located at the base of a steep swell about 180-200ft up and left of the launch pad...

Pitch 2: 5.10a Move slightly right and up to a lone bolt on the steep swell above the anchor... Clip the bolt and head straight up (a bit hair-raising to say the least)... The steepness eases off and you head up to the right a good run out way on more moderate slab to a 2 bolt anchor that is often used on Sliding Board...

Pitch 3: 5.8 This gets an R rating in Websters book and it deserves it but so do all the other pitches in one spot or another... I think if you made it through the 5.10 slab this will feel like a breeze... Just climb the white streak straight up past 1 bolt... 120 ft...

Pitch 4: 5.10c Crux time... Do a scary slab traverse to the right that gets harder the farther right you go... Gain a solid stance and a bolt and get ready for "the move"... If you are tall you are a little better off but it's not easy however you are built... Using slippery feet and a badish undercling you must reach a finger crack above... Very fun crux and not too scary... Continue up and belay at an overlap...

Pitch 5: 5.5 Pull over the overlap and climb easy unprotected slab up and right to belay at a fixed pin at a stance below the right end of the steep bulge above... Here you have the oportunity to link up with sliding board (which might be smart if you like clean rock)...

Pitch 6: 5.8 Climb up to the bulge above the belay and find the path of least resistance... Pull some hard foot based moves over the bulge (this was the spookiest part of the climb for me) and on to some more moderate slab... Follow a dirty ramp up and left until a juggy rail leads back to the right... Get good pro for a change and pull a tricky move on to low angle climbing... One more easy overlap out right heads on to the summit slabs where you can run it out to a nice belay stance...

Pitch 7: Easy slabs above run out to the summit...

Exausting... But nice...

Location

To the left of Sliding Board...

Protection

Regular rack... I saw no real need for the tricams that are so useful on many of the routes on the slabs...

Photos

Upgraded to 5.10c R. kickass! I led it about 1991 when it was just 5.10a.
I have no idea where we went on the 3rd and 4th pitch but all 3 pitches felt like hard 9-10a-ish terrain above sliding board. (counting 2nd pitch from base of arch, though we and most people walk up to the arch). It was scary in the crappy shoes of the time. I hate to think of it in original rubber. I suspect we missed some of the bolts. Luckily took the slider 10' above the good 2nd pitch bolt.

We yoyo'ed some and did Tidal Wave and Black Jade (which had a whopping
3x 1/4" bolts--we toproped it). We ran into Marc Chauvin at the top of the
3rd pitch belay overlap. He remarked that we were squeezing in all the best pitches on the slabs in one climb.

Please tell me someone has replaced the bolts. They were old in 1991. Ethics mean "keep the same bolt locations" not "keep the same bolts" Mar 28, 2016
bradley white   Bend
Bolts and any fixed gear should be as safe as the FA party had it. Bolt failure is not optional. Older fixed gear gets less strength over the years. Having fixed gear come out onto your fingers is too late for replacement unless prepared. Being prepared means having and the know how to use a bolt kit on the lead.
Or have a group effort to do a premeditated and expensive upkeep to the entire North Conway area. Not my neck of the woods and theirs for ethical conduct. Sep 28, 2012
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
 
This has one of the best and most perplexing crux moves on the Slabs. It's all about the feet...really. And watch out how you orient the rope when meking the .10 moves---if the rope is over your right leg you can easily be flipped upside-down if you fall (with real head-smacking potential). May 22, 2012
Gabe13 Flanders
Eaton Center, New Hampshire
 
Gabe13 Flanders   Eaton Center, New Hampshire
 
On the upper crux (undercling/reach over the swell)it is possible to get a nice medium nut in the flake you're reaching for- Which makes cranking the next move far less nerve-wracking. Sep 11, 2010
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
  5.10c R
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
  5.10c R
love this kind of route! The bolts are just barley where you need them. On the other hand, they are old 1/4 inch bolts. What is the consensus on retro bolting or bolting new routes on this slab? Jun 25, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Note that even though i posted the route those were not my opinion of the grades but rather the ones in the book... Grades are so different everywhere you go i take them very lightly and use them only to get a general idea of weather i have any business being on a climb...

Its a fun and scary route and i am really impressed that you did it before i was born with the gear you had regaurdless of what you rated it... nice work! Oct 27, 2009
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Ya paul, but you and mike prolly had EB's on which everyone knows made climbs easier !The first pitch (was that Albert ?) is a good way to learn rope reelin' technique. Another good route on the slabs with some runouts is Black Jade 10-ish Oct 27, 2009
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
That's funny to hear. The 5.8 pitch did feel much easier, easier even then Sliding board I would say. But I couldn't tell if that was because I had just done a .10a slab pitch, or if it actually was that easy. Oct 27, 2009
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Amusing how grades have jumped over the years as climbers have become more conservative.When Mike Heintz and myself did the first ascent in 1977 of pitch three we graded it 5.6 (now 5.8R) and the Crux pitch four we graded 5.9 (now 5.10c).See description in 1978 Ross/Ellms guide.If NH climbers would like some runout slab practice we suggest they make a trip to the Eastern Reef area of the San Rafael Swell,Utah. Oct 27, 2009
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
Lee, I agree on the bit O' R on every pitch. First real pitch, the .10a, crux is kind of a little ways above the bolt, I took a "runner" (what a whipper is like on slab if you're lucky) on to the belay before the first bolt, and onto the bolt from the crux, certainly one of the scariest moments of my life, but safe none the less. The 5.8 felt like cake walk after that despite only having one bolt. The .10c pitch is the only one that I actually felt at threat of injury on. I feel like if you fell from the crux there you would most likely hit the slab below it pretty hard, which ankles tend not to like. Super fun route none the less. Glad to see it on MP. Oct 21, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I kinda mentioned this a little in the description but I figured I'd reiterate, the Webster book only give an R rating to one or 2 pitches and the Handren book makes no mention of scary climbing... I found every pitch to have either pg13 or R rated climbing on it... Thats what i came for, thats what i expect on a slab route but make sure you are ready for it... and have some fun... Oct 21, 2009